Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2019 i Decanter

Around the wine world Climate change represents a ‘global emergency’ Hundreds of industry representatives attended the Climate Change Leadership conference in Porto – a follow-up to the Porto Protocol launched with former US President Barack Obama in 2018. The conference, held in March, was organised with the Fladgate Partnership, owner of Taylor’s and Croft Port houses. In the closing speech, former US Vice-President and Nobel Laureate, Al Gore, highlighted the ‘global emergency’ posed by climate change to the planet’s resources – from water, topsoil and forests to the state of the oceans and biodiversity. The energy trapped in the atmosphere by manmade global warming, Gore said, was equivalent to exploding 500,000 Hiroshima atomic bombs a day, 365 days a year. He likened extreme weather events around the world in recent…

Letter of the month Not a drop to drink MY INTEREST IN wine is mainly grounded in using my senses to smell and taste new wines, trying to identify the grapes and recognise the terroir, and sharing and discussing with friends. But after I sustained a serious head injury and doctors advised me to refrain from alcohol for a year, I’ve learned that it is perfectly possible to maintain an interest and develop one’s knowledge of wine, without actually drinking it. Wine is so much more than pleasant drinking or trying to achieve the perfect food match. It is culture, geography and history – all of which you can delve into without drinking a drop. The Decanter app ‘Know Your Wine’ in particular has helped to broaden my perspective. Thanks…

Jane Anson ‘There’s barely an estate in Bordeaux that has not had its name altered’ IN EARLY FEBRUARY, French novelist and Bordeaux resident Philippe Sollers wrote an open letter to Alain Juppé, at that time the mayor of Bordeaux, to complain about the number of Chinese-owned châteaux that had changed the original names of their estates to something more palatable to their home markets. He cited, among others, Châteaux Lapin Impérial, Lapin d’Or, Antilope Tibétaine and Grande Antilope; these were, respectively, Châteaux Larteau in Arveyres, Tour St-Pierre in St-Emilion, Sénilhac in St-Seurin-de-Cadourne and Clos Bel Air in Pomerol. A key figure in the French intellectual protests of May 1968, Sollers, now aged in his 80s, has always liked to provoke a reaction. Even his Wikipedia entry says that his writings…

Jefford’s top Brunellos 1 Canalicchio di Sopra Riserva 2013 95 £42.17 (ib)-£47.68 Crump Richmond Shaw, Justerini & Brooks This 60ha domaine is enviably sited, with a total of 19ha either in Montosoli or in the neighbouring northern sub-zone of Canalicchio itself. It is run with great attention to detail by Francesco Ripaccioli with his brother Marco and sister Simonetta. This beautiful Riserva (usually one barrel only) is a clear blood-red in colour, with truly magnificent aromas in terms of subtlety and nuance: summer straw and meadow perfumes mingling with cream, leather and walnut. Light, silky, delicate and soft-textured on the palate: fruits rendered harmonious by cellar time, with silky tannins and the complexity of crushed seeds, nuts and spices adding further flavour layers. Refinement itself. Drink 2020-2030 Alcohol 14.5% 2…

A taste of Sicily: Baudains’ pick of the Donnafugata range 1 Vigna di Gabri Bianco 2017 94 £18.87-£22.65 Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Tannico, The Fine Wine Co, Vinvm Lime tree blossom, bergamot and salted lemons, hints of Mediterranean scrub and capers. Crisp entry, firm structure with the lightly tannic character of the Ansonica grape. Concentrated citrus finish, a hint of saltiness. Drink 2019-2025 Alcohol 13% 2 Mille e Una Notte Rosso 2015 96 £55-£79.99 AG Wines, Carruthers & Kent, Exel, GP Brands, Liberty Wines, Tannico, Vinvm Elegantly self-assured on the nose. Cassis and violets with a note of cocoa powder, a touch of inkiness and a hint of wild herbs. Intense fruit palate and the velvety texture of super-refined, perfectly integrated tannins. Long, fresh, balanced finish. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 14%…

ITALIAN WHITES Italy’s best whites for food Italian white wines come in a huge range of styles, offering food lovers lots of potential for delicious pairings. Fiona Beckett travels from north to south in the country, seeking out the most food-friendly regional wines and suggesting dishes to match them Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Waitrose & Partners (www.waitrose.com), Great Western Wine (www.greatwesternwine.co.uk) & The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com) for the loan of the bottles ‘There’s so much value to be had among Italy’s whites – often the more modest the better’ IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO think of Italian wine outside the context of food; certainly in the minds of many Italians (unless they’re exceptionally well travelled) it’s impossible to even think outside their regional dishes. And why should they, with the…

BAROLO ALTERNATIVES Top 20 Barolo alternatives With big-name Barolos commanding a hefty price tag, where can wine lovers go for their Nebbiolo fix? Susan Hulme MW highlights alternative regions of Italy, from Alto Piemonte to Valtellina, where good-value Nebbiolo is worth seeking out NEBBiolo hAs BEComE very popular in the past 15 years, particularly in its most famous expression of Barolo. Just like the leading châteaux of Bordeaux, some of langhe’s ‘first growths’ have become investment wines. The best have an alluring perfume of dried roses, violets and tar, along with a bright, juicy acidity and assertive tannic backbone, producing taut wines with a fantastic ability to age. These are nervy, exciting wines, that have some of the bewitching perfume of Burgundy but with more edge and tannic bite. Piedmont’s…

Best of Bardolino: Morris’ top dozen Villa Calicantus 2017 91 N/A UK www.villacalicantus.it Aged five months in used barriques, this deeply coloured and weighty rosato behaves more like a light red than a rosé. Full of freshly picked, succulent cherries, it is gorgeously textured with vanilla nuances and refreshing underlying salinity. Drink 2019-2023 Alcohol 12.5% Le Fraghe, Ròdon, Bardolino Chiaretto 2018 89 £11 (2014) Meadowdale Wines Rodòn takes its name from the ancient Greek word for ‘pink’. Partially crafted using the saignée method, it is overtly peppery with a wild strawberry and fresh raspberry palate. A light-on-its-feet style; joyful drinking. Organic. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12.5% Poggio delle Grazie, Bardolino Chiaretto 2018 89 N/A UK www.poggiodellegrazie.it Brothers Massimo and Stefano Brutti started making wine from their family’s 15ha property in 2014.…

The grape Little is known about the Ruché vine and its origins. It appears to have been cultivated on the Monferrato hills, particularly around Castagnole, its area of choice, since the Middle Ages. The Ruché origins and its name are veiled in mystery: some hypothesize that the name comes from the vineyards’ vicinity to a now non-existent Benedictine monastery dedicated to Saint Roch. Or that its roots derive from the Italian verb arroccarsi which describes how the vines cling to the steep landscape. Or even that the vine was imported during the 12th century by Cistercian monks from Burgundy, but this theory was proved wrong by a study of the Ruché’s DNA in 2016 which closely relates it to two typically northern Italian vines, Croatina and the now extinct Malvasia…

A taste of the top northern Rhônes Wines are listed by commune, from north to south, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. The final alcohols on many wines were not yet determined when tasted in late 2018. Many UK allocations and prices have not been set, so contact specialist merchants for updates. Côte-Rôtie  the best years, most recently in 2013 and 2016. Soaring rose and violet potpourri aromas lead to a medium-bodied palate with beautiful purity of juice – it’s at once concentrated but so lifted, and the tannins are very refined yet strong. It has a very long finish with a hint of citrus and menthol freshness, and a gentle mineral undertow. Extraordinary, beautiful and spellbinding. Just 1,000 bottles made. The Côte Blonde scored 97 and La Landonne…

The Spurrier selection Castel Juval, Riesling, Windbichel, Alto Adige, Italy, 2016 93 £40 Planet of the Grapes, Theatre of Wine, Winetraders From just 4ha on the steep, rocky slopes of the Juval hill, exposed south at 750m, the microclimate allows Riesling to achieve full maturity, while retaining pristine acidity to enhance an almost exotic bouquet and vibrantly pure expression. Drink 2019-2026 Alcohol 14% Corte Sant’Alda, Campi Magri, Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2015 94 £30 Butlers Wine Cellar, Fortnum & Mason, Vivino, Winetraders Marinella Camerani farms 21ha biodynamically, the Campi Magri being 4.2ha of 30-year-old vines. Aged for two years in 1,500-litre cherry wood, this is classic and classy – one of the best ripassos I’ve ever tasted. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 14% Matosevic, Grimalda, Brdo Vineyard, Istria, Croatia 2016 92…

CHIANTI CLASSICO: THE FACTS Chianti Classico comes from 7,200ha of vineyards located in nine townships between Florence and Siena. These are: Radda in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and Castellina in Chianti (the largest in terms of vineyard area), plus parts of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga, San Casciano Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa and Poggibonsi (the smallest in terms of vineyard area). Average annual production of Chianti Classico DOCG between 2011 and 2016 inclusive was around 35 million bottles, which is about four times as much as Brunello di Montalcino.…

THE JUDGES Susan Hulme MW Hulme is a wine writer, judge and consultant, specialising in Italian wines. She regularly travels to all the main wine regions of Italy. A Master of Wine since 2005, she won the Bollinger Medal for  excellence in tasting in the MW exam. Since 2016 she has written regularly for Decanter magazine and Decanter.com on Italian wines. Andrew Jefford Jefford has been writing about wine since the 1980s, winning many awards. He is a contributing editor to Decanter magazine and writes a popular blog for Decanter Premium.  After working as a senior research fellow at Adelaide University from 2009-2010, he now lives with his family in Languedoc, France. Monty Waldin Waldin is a widely published and awarded wine writer, author, broadcaster and consultant with a particular interest…

The verdict With a wide range of vintages on show, our judges were impressed with the balance and drinkability they found, says Michael Garner, with good value options across all styles Producers were invited to submit examples of Amarone of their choice (see ÔEntry criteria’, right), and from the most recently released vintage. It was not surprising, therefore, to find 11 different vintages on show, from 2015 (the currently available ‘generic’ line from most wineries) back to a sole, brave example from distant 1998! Four vintages accounted for nearly 75% of the wines: in descending order 2015 (25%), 2012 (22%), 2013 (14%) and 2011 (11%). Significantly, the top eight wines (92pts or above) featured six different vintages – a clear indication that vintage is not always quite such a key…

PANEL TASTING HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Corte Rugolin, Monte Danieli, Classico Riserva 2012 93 MG 92 AJ 95 MW 93 N/A UK www.corterugolin.it Mouthfilling and rich, unveiling a lovely creamy blanket of dried cherry and plum fruit, propelled by an enlivening vein of acidity. Highly satisfying yet still youthful. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 16% Le Ragose, Marta Galli, Classico 2008 93 MG 94 AJ 96 MW 90 POA True Terroir Very fine aromas of autumnal fruit and Christmas spice, while being deep, rounded and intricate on the palate. Beautifully aged and harmonious. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 16% Crosarola, Classico Riserva 2013 92 MG 92 AJ 90 MW 93 N/A UK www.crosarola.it Simple yet enticing aromas of cherry fruit welcome a soft and tender palate, effortless in its attack yet with plenty of tannic…

MY MILAN My Milan Italy’s fashion capital and arguably its most dynamic city, Milan has plenty of appeal for food and wine lovers, thanks to its wealth of tasty local dishes and a burgeoning wine scene, says Sarah Lane Sarah Lane What I love most about Gilan is its multi-faceted character, each neighbourhood having its own well-defined personality: villagey Brera, futuristic Jorta Huova and the exclusive designer boutiques of the Kuadrilatero d’Iro. C like to stroll in the Havigli canal district while the waterside cafés are still quiet before the early evening rush and when bars in the city – especially here – are loaded with buffets for the daily aperitivo ritual. Nhe city’s pulsing heart is Jiazza del Duomo, dominated by the spectacular Aothic cathedral; don’t miss the experience…

Decanter WINE LEDENDS Nino Negri, 5 Stelle Sfursat 2001 Valtellina, Lombardy, Italy A legend because… This rare style – produced by the same method that results in Amarone but infusing it with the finesse of the Nebbiolo grape – was first bottled by the Nino Negri winery in 1956. The wine is produced from healthy grapes that are dried for many months before vinification. The natural drying process elevates the alcohol and the dry extract, resulting in a wine of intensity and power. The 2001 vintage 5 Stelle, which is the winery’s top Sfursat, has long been considered one of the supreme expressions of the style. Looking back The Nino Negri estate, based in the village of Chiuro, was founded in 1897 in the Valtellina valley on the southern edge…

John Stimpfig ‘In war and peace, de Nonancourt led from the front with panache’ OVER THE PAST 30 years, I have had the immense privilege of meeting and interviewing many of the great and the good in the fine wine world. Sadly though, some giants got away. One of them was undoubtedly Bernard de Nonancourt, who died in 2010 at the ripe old age of 90. The aristocratic, down-to-earth de Nonancourt rebuilt Laurent-Perrier from scratch just after World War II to what became – and remains – the fourth largest house in Champagne. During that time, just some of his pioneering achievements were the introduction of stainless-steel vats, the re-introduction of L-P’s Ultra Brut, and the creation of its magnificent Rosé and the great Grand Siècle. It really was a…

In brief ■ Germany’s Marc Almert, 27, is the 2019 Best Sommelier of the World. He beat 66 other finalists from 63 countries, including runner-up Nina Højgaard Jensen of Denmark, aged 26, and third-placed Raimonds Tomsons of Latvia, 38. Held this year in Antwerp, Belgium, it was the 16th edition of the contest, which is run every three years by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale. ■ Installing ‘colossal’ wind turbines in Chablis vineyards will ‘completely spoil’ the landscape and could threaten the region’s economy, which has benefited from tourism, said producer Jean-Marc Brocard. A public enquiry ruled that the turbines should be permitted, despite an ‘overwhelming majority’ who opposed the plans, he said. ■ Interest in blue-chip producers of rare Burgundy drove fine wine prices up 9% in 2018,…

Andrew Jefford ‘Most producers rely on a tiny pool of long-established varieties’ SHORTLY BEFORE CHRISTMAS, a 92-year-old Briton died in the same Shropshire village in which he had been born. That implies a quiet life – yet his name is well known around the world, at least to gardeners and rose-lovers. David Austin was the greatest rose-breeder of our times, responsible for creating more than 240 new roses (including one called Chianti and another called Comte de Champagne). As I read the accounts of Austin’s life and work, I couldn’t help but be struck by the contrast between the world of roses – where breeding innovation is not merely welcomed but championed – and wine creation, where most producers rely on a tiny pool of long-established varieties, despite their often…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Castello di Albola High altitude winemaking in Chianti Classico Castello di Albola is located in Radda in Chianti, an atmospheric medieval village in the high, central part of the Chianti Classico region, midway between the Renaissance cities of Florence and Siena. For the first 1,000 years of history the estate belonged to a succession of noble Tuscan families, including the Acciaiolis, Samminiatis, Pazzis, and Ginori Conti, before its purchase by the Zonin family from the Veneto in 1979. Now, with 25,000 visitors annually, Castello di Albola has become one Tuscany’s centres of hospitality as well as a leading wine producer. Castello di Albola comprises 900 hectares of land of which 125 hectares are vines, 90% of which are Chianti Classico’s flagship grape, Sangiovese, which is indeed the sole…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Bertani Domains Tuscan estates: Sangiovese specialization starting in the vineyards Bertani Domains is an Italian wine company with seven prestigious wineries across its homeland. Since 2012, their day-to-day management has been overseen by Andrea Lonardi, an affable, articulate and Anglophone Italian who also speaks both French and Californian, having studied, lived and worked in both places. On arrival, Lonardi unhesitatingly installed a team of young but open-minded “vineyardists” and winemakers at Bertani’s three blue-chip Tuscan estates: Pietro Riccobono at Tenuta Trerose in the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, and Marco Ostan at both Val di Suga in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and San Leonino in the Chianti Classico DOCG. “The result is red wines with coherence and inner harmony.” The flagship wines from all three estates are…

Alessandra Piubello’s top wines Cantine Sant’Agata, Pro Nobis, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DoCg, Piedmont, Italy 2015 92 £26 Mondial Wines Captivating, wide and intense olfactory range. Dense, palpable potential, well-balanced in the sip. Energetic and widespread tactile impression, galloping progression and lengthy, elegant closure on dark spices. Drink 2019-2023 Alcohol 14.5% Ferraris Agricola, Vigna Del Parroco, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DoCg, Piedmont, Italy 2017 91 £26 gastro Nicks Ltd Complex, choral nose with distinctive traits (ginseng, rose, mulberries, tobacco and chalky hints). Evocative depth in the texture that reverberates in the mouth on a full sip, sculptured in filigree. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 15% Montalbera, La Tradizione, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DoCg, Piedmont, Italy 2017 91 £16 Astrum Wine Cellars Fragrant roses hiding in a glass with an echo of inviting…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Bodegas Sumarroca, Brut Nature Gran Reserva, Cava, Catalonia, Spain 2014 92 £15-£16 Alliance Wine, Grand Cru, The Fine Wine Co A complex, elegant fizz from the three main Cava grapes, given 36 months’ ageing. Lively acidity lifts creamy, biscuity autolytic notes, joined by green apple and peach flavours and a long, mineral finish. Alcohol 12% Ghost Corner, Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc, Cape Agulhas, Elim, South Africa 2016 93 £17.95-£22.36 Bancroft Wines, Concept Wines, Corking Wine Perfectly judged oak (barrel fermented and aged for 10 months) frames…

CHIANTI CLASSICO: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2017 A 35% drop in yield due to spring frosts, then drought. Some unusually dense wines, which are still finding their feet and need food. Drink 2019-2024. 2016 Hot summer, followed by some opportune autumn rain. Best wines are velvety, drinking beautifully now. 2019-2030. 2015 A torrid summer meant those fitness-fanatic vines with already deep roots found enough moisture to give the most integrated tannins and ripe rather than roasted fruit. 2019-2025. 2014 A rainy season meant lighter, more fluid wines with agreeable digestibility and crunchiness suited to fattier foods. But drink up. 2013 Underated wines, brightly coloured and firm-fruited thanks in part to cool harvest nights. 2019-2025. 2012 A snowy winter and a chilly, damp spring, then a Sahara-like summer. Small and healthy grapes…

CHIANTI CLASSICO 2010 OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Villa Calcinaia, Riserva Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Susan Hulme MW 94 Andrew Jefford 97 Monty Waldin 96 POA Cava Spiliadis This historic estate (pronounced ‘Kal-chin-aya’) has been home to the Counts Capponi since 1524 and is today managed by brothers Sebastiano and Niccolò Capponi. Located in the heart of Chianti Classico, close to the town of Greve in Chianti, the estate includes 30ha of vineyard, which have been farmed organically since 1992. This riserva Castell’in Villa, Riserva 95 SH 94 AJ 97 MW 95 POA Stannary St Wine Co Castell’in Villa is a small estate in the commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, at the southern end of the Chianti Classico region. While the estate has a long history, dating back to the 13th…

AMARONE: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2015 A long, hot and dry summer gave big, ripe and rich wines with good phenolic maturity. Potentially excellent wines which mainly need keeping. 2014 A notoriously wet and cool year: while many wines are perfectly drinkable, they are not great either. To be drunk young. 2013 A cooler than average summer was followed by a warm and sunny autumn. The wines are particularly aromatic and the best show real finesse. Drink from 2020. 2012 Weather conditions turned patchy after an intensely hot summer. These big, generous wines are beginning to drink well. 2011 A highly touted vintage producing balanced wines which are approaching their peak. Drink or keep for three to five years. 2010 A cooler than average vintage: while perhaps lacking flesh, the wines…

THE JUDGES Michael Garner Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 years. He is a regular contributor to Decanter and DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy. Garner is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona and co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses. He lives in rural Devon. Andrew Jefford Jefford has been writing about wine since the 1980s, winning many awards. He is a contributing editor to Decanter magazine and writes a widely followed blog for Decanter Premium. After working as a senior research fellow at Adelaide University from 2009-2010, he now lives with his family in Languedoc, France. Monty Waldin Waldin is a widely published and awarded wine writer, author, broadcaster and consultant…

COMMENDED 83-85pts ■ Allegrini, Classico 2015 85, 15%, 2019-2023, £66.67 Millésima ■ Cantine Delibori, Antica Corte, Classico 2014 85, 15%, 2019-2021, N/A UK www. cantinedelibori.com ■ Fratelli Vogadori, Forlago, Classico 2013 85, 15%, 2019-2021 N/A UK www. vogadorivini.it ■ Santi, Proemio, Classico 2012 85, 15%, 2019-2025, N/A UK www.gruppoitalianovini.it ■ Tenute Falezza, Riserva 2014 85, 15%, 2019, N/A UK www.tenutefalezza.com ■ Villa Mattielli 2015 85, 15%, 2019-2024, £39 Top Selection ■ Poggi, Corte dei Castaldi, Classico 2015 83, 16%, 2019-2023, £34 Champagnes & Châteaux FAIR 76-82pts ■ Cantina di Negrar, Classico 2015 80 FAULTY ■ Aldegheri, Classico Riserva 2008 (TCA) Next month’s panel tastings Californian premium Chardonnay and South American icon Bordeaux blends…

MY TOP 10 IN MILAN 1 Cantina Urbana Visit Italy’s first city winery to try its newly released 2018 Naviglio Rosso (Barbera and Croatina) or Bianco (100% Riesling). Other wines include the intense and characterful Tranatt Rosso (Syrah-Barbera-Teroldego) and the spicy, lesser-known native from Molise, Tintilia. You can fill, cork and label your own bottle from the current wines on tap, book a blending experience or just relax at the wine bar. www.cantinaurbana.it Photograph: Stefano Politi Markovina/Alamy 2 Trattoria Madonnina Reassuring home cooking aromas and a cheerful atmosphere at this historic trattoria dating from 1721. Take a seat at one of the check-clothed tables among historic photos and prints or under the leafy courtyard canopy, then choose from dishes such as cotoletta alla Milanese (breaded bone-in veal cutlet),…

What I’ve been drinking this month Five minutes to grab a bottle from a local off-licence on the way to see my dad and I reached for an Alasia, Langhe Nebbiolo 2015. It was a lesson in the difference between tasting and drinking. The fruit style was dusty and soft-focus: I’d have marked it down in tasting. When we drank, though, the tannins proved fleshy, slow-dropping and fine; the acidity was warm, round and ingratiating: delicious, despite the ‘blemish’. Brighter wines with more taster-appeal might have satisfied less.…

MERLOT Best Merlots under £50 We asked our experts from around the world to nominate the great-value Merlots that have impressed them most recently. Andrew Jefford then compared them all in a blind tasting to come up with his favourites Photograph: Ullstein Bild/Getty Images MERLOT IS MONSTER. With 266,000ha, it’s the world’s second most widely planted wine grape, according to 2017 figures from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine; only Cabernet Sauvignon occupies a bigger global vineyard area (341,000ha). It’s also Bordeaux’s most widely planted grape (being easier to ripen than Cabernet). Indeed, this is France’s most widely planted variety overall; Languedoc has more Merlot planted than Bordeaux does Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a major variety in the USA, in Chile and in Italy, and is present in 37 countries,…

Producer profile Donnafugata At the forefront of innovation and the development of Sicilian wine as a whole, this pace-setting family producer combines an island legacy, dating back more than 160 years, with a strong vision for the future. Richard Baudains reports I Am sITTINg at a table in the tasting room at Donnafugata in marsala on a blustery January afternoon, and the wines keep coming. I am in the lengthy process of tasting one of the most comprehensive ranges of sicilian wines made by a single producer on the island today. It is a kaleidoscope of colours, aromas, textures and flavours that testifies to the extraordinary richness of sicily. No other Italian region can offer such diversity – and Donnafugata showcases it impressively. Donnafugata sources grapes from managed vineyards in…

Villa da Vinci wines S.to Ippolito IGT Toscana 2016 Made from a selection of the best Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah from the estate. The highest expression of the best red grapes of the Vinci area. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in mainly new oak for 12-18 months. Tasting notes: majestic fruity palate of pure blackberry jam, and the balsamic and menthol aromas of vanilla and bright spices. Streda IGT Toscana 2017 Made from a selection of the best Vermentino grapes grown in our vineyards, showing how this grape reaches one of its best varietal expressions in the territory of Vinci. Fermented in stainless steel for maximum aromatic quality. Tasting notes: crystal-clear scent of peaches and flowers infusing the unique aroma with softness and clarity.…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE GIUSTI WINE New products on show at Vinitaly; new projects for development “Asolo Prosecco is the only DOCG denomination of Prosecco that can describe a wine as ‘Extra Brut’” This year, the Italian wine fair, Vinitaly, in Verona, sees the launch of Giusti Wine’s new product: Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut. This typology is the maximum expression for a sparkling wine from the hilly Asolo region in the Veneto. Asolo Prosecco is in fact the only denomination within the world of Prosecco that can describe a DOCG wine as “Extra Brut”. Which is something the consumer also wants, because consumers are turning more towards the drier versions of Prosecco rather than the more usual styles with a touch of sweetness. The hills of Asolo and Montello, thirty…

Ruché - style and food-pairing Ruché produces red grapes with a mid to early ripening. They accumulate sugars well and, despite the low acidity, retain a good share of malic acid that gives the wine freshness. The main characteristic of the grapes is the wealth of polyphenolic substances, mainly tannins, that generate the wine’s structure. Semi-aromatic, it has good alcoholic potential. The taste is unique and particular, averagely structured and generous. The olfactory notes are of faded rose, violet and spices and the taste is reminiscent of blackberry, raspberry and ripe plums, with hints of spice, such as black pepper. Although a 10% blend with Brachetto and/or Barbera grapes is legally allowed, the wine produced is usually pure Ruché. The wine is an ideal companion for mature or blue cheeses…

Vintage report Northern Rhône 2017 As with the south, tricky weather conditions mean the 2017s – particularly the whites – don’t live up to the past two vintages. However if you have the patience, you’ll be rewarded with some impressive, complex reds. Matt Walls reports The NorTherN rhoNe experienced very similar weather conditions to the southern rhône in the first part of the 2017 growing season (see April 2019 issue or Decanter Premium for full report). It got off to an early start, only to be interrupted by a sudden cold snap that slowed down growth. Syrah is less prone to coulure than Grenache, but nonetheless it affected yields; when the weather warmed up again, instead of concentrating on flowering, the vines focused on vegetative growth. ‘They couldn’t concentrate on…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Château Latour 2009 After three decades of being held at Adnams in Suffolk, the annual Southwold tastings have now moved to Farr Vintners’ offices in London. The Bordeaux châteaux supply two bottles. The spoilage rate being very low, the single bottles (of red and sweet wines only) that remain are kept to be tasted in their tenth year. The wines are served blind, and the same panel of tasters are present, knowing the wines in each flight but not the order. The opulent 2009 vintage carried itself well, the preference being for the Left…

PANEL TASTING The verdict A classic vintage that’s showing well now, 2010 produced some outstanding wines right across the Chianti Classico region. Monty Waldin shares the highlights of the tasting The 2010 Chianti Classico growing season got off to a tricky start but ultimately produced really classic wines. There were two key factors. First, a difficult spring in some areas reduced the potential crop, providing the pre-conditions for concentrated flavours. Second, ripening was slow in autumn, but warm days and cool nights made for wines with precise fruit flavours and appealing but not over-bearing depth. Growers could pick methodically according to flavour (not just sugar or potential alcohol) ripeness, while also eliminating any sub-standard berries and stems, allowing them to make rich wines with an uplifting inner crunch. In the…

CHIANTI CLASSICO 2010 HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 90–94pts Lornano, Le Bandite, Riserva 93 SH 89 AJ 95 MW 95 N/A UK www.lornano.it Fresh, vivid and lively, if perhaps a little brisk, though remains beautifully balanced and full of charm. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 14.5% Machiavelli, Vigna di Fontalle, Riserva 93 SH 96 AJ 90 MW 94 N/A UK www.gruppoitalianovini.it This offers intensity yet without any heaviness, revealing a fine interplay between bright cherry fruit and quality oak. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 15% Barone Ricasoli, Colledilà, Gran Selezione 92 SH 89 AJ 92 MW 94 £39 Fells Nimble in style, evenly contoured and clearly expressed, delivering suitably crunchy, earthy Sangiovese fruit. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 14.5% Capannelle, Riserva 92 SH 94 AJ 89 MW 94 £32 Top Selection Very coherent and transparent, with subtle, integrated oak…

AMARONE: THE FACTS Amarone is produced throughout the Valpolicella denomination (including the sub-zones of Classico and Valpantena) from grapes dried until at least 1 December following the vintage and fermented out to a minimum of 14% alcohol. The wine may contain a maximum of between 12g/L and about 16g/L of sugar (depending on its total alcohol content), though 5-7g/L is more common. The wine is aged for a minimum of two years from the year following the vintage or for four years (beginning in November) for Riserva.…

OUTSTANDING 95–97pts Corte San Benedetto, Camporal, Classico Riserva 2009 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Michael Garner 95 Andrew Jefford 97 Monty Waldin 95 £75 Exel Owned and run by the Lavarini family, the Corte San Benedetto winery is located in Arbizzano di Negrar, 10km to the northwest of Verona, in an ancient rural court from which the winery takes its name. The family can trace its origins as local landowners back to 1800 and currently farm 18ha of vineyard. This wine hails from vineyards just outside the small town of Camporal, in the hills of Marano di Valpolicella. A blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Corvinone and 20% Rondinella, it spends three years in 900-litre oak tonneaux and then another four years in 30hl Slavonian oak casks before release.…

EXPERTS CHOICE Sicily’s native whites Italy’s historical Mediterranean destination-island is now making waves thanks to the rapidly rising quality of its wines. Carla Capalbo recommends her top 18 whites The Italians describe Sicily as a continent. The range of landscapes and climates on this remarkable island go from volcanoes and mountains to salt flats and beaches, with temperatures and rainfall that are equally variable. So it’s no wonder that the vine has played such an important part in Sicily’s history and economy. Currently white wine makes up about 60% of the island’s production. While some international varieties are grown and vinified, it’s the indigenous grapes that are telling the most powerful stories about the island’s character. At least a dozen native white varieties are currently in production, with the main…

YOUR MONTECUCCO ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Castello di Vicarello An elegantly restored 12th-century castle with eight suites, two pools, a spa, a fabulous kitchen and restaurant. Truffle hunting or leather belt-making activities are available, as are cooking classes. The castle cookbook, written by owner Aurora Baccheschi Berti, is excellent – as are the wines, which are made by her husband Carlo. www.castellodivicarello.com Il Giardino di Daniel Spoerri Three simple, bright apartments within the garden of Daniel Spoerri, an exquisite spot to enjoy the work of this prolific artist, as well as to rest and eat. Meals are cooked on site by local Michelin-starred chef, Roberto Rossi. www.ilsilene.it Podere Montale A winery (and wine hotel) opened in 2014, with 2015 being its first harvest. From Montale you can see, within 3km, three…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Condrieu development On a recent visit to London retailer Hedonism Wines, I tasted E Guigal’s sublime La Doriane Condrieu 2016. During further research into Condrieu wines, I was surprised to be told that their quality dips after five years from vintage (likened to becoming a troublesome teenager), getting ‘soapy’ characters before improving again later. What would cause this? Luca Robinson, by email Matt Walls replies: Top Condrieu can easily last 20 years or more, but the northern Rhône’s star white evolves into a very different creature as it ages. It’s either best drunk within four years of the vintage, or after 12. When young, it’s characterised by heady violet and jasmine aromas with…