Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2017 i Decanter

In brief Port house Taylor’s marked its 325th anniversary with the unveiling of a limited-edition tawny that arrived in London by yacht from the Douro. The re-enactment of Taylor’s first shipment of Port to the UK in the 17th century included a cask of the Port – a blend of the best wines chosen for Taylor’s aged tawnies. American consumers drank more wine priced above $10 a bottle as shipments of Californian wine within the US hit record levels last year. Volumes were up 2% to 238m cases in 2016, according to The Gomberg-Fredrikson Report, thanks to population growth and increased consumption by younger millennials. Champagne-led wine business Maisons & Domaines Henriot has acquired a majority stake in Oregon Pinot Noir producer Beaux Frères Vineyard. Existing shareholders and founders Michael…

Andrew Jefford ‘Bottles symbolise a sort of plenty: the apogee of the harvest home’ ANOTHER HOUSE MOVE – the eighth in 10 years. This is too often for a peaceful life, and too often to retain much wine. Each successive move shakes away a few more bottles. We haven’t, this time, moved to somebody else’s former house for an agreed price, but set about building our own. (Or, to be more accurate, getting it built.) As anyone who has ever undertaken this will confirm, what you naively assume is ‘the budget’ quickly casts adrift of its moorings. After that, it’s a question of scraping together whatever you can in order to complete the house in a utilitarian rather than an aesthetic sense. My surviving wine collection became part of the…

Top tips on choosing cool reds • Cooler regions are typically a safer bet than hot ones. Think Austria, Germany, New Zealand, northern and western France, northern Italy and Sicily, northwest Spain, eastern Europe, coastal Chile and South Africa, as well as cool-climate US and Australia • Winning grape varieties are Barbera, Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Franc, Cinsault, Corvina, Dolcetto, Gamay, Grenache, Mencía, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zweigelt and lighter Nebbiolo and Sangiovese styles • It’s the style, however, that is more important than grape or region: go for light- or medium-bodied wines with fresh acidity and discreet, fine tannins • A pale colour is a good indicator – it suggests the wine has undergone a light extraction and it therefore won’t be intensely concentrated • Juicy, fruity flavours work better than savoury…

DANIEL’S TOP PICKS “Wines for me are about experiences, memorable moments – these are packed with them!” Kalecik Karası A very delicate red varietal. This has spectacular perfume and balance if one uses a light hand with barrel ageing, but it also outperforms most other grapes as a bracing rosé. Öküzgözü Another red varietal which has to be in my top three for its structure and acidity; great minty and deep red fruits backed up by always present but supple tannins. Narince Would be my favourite white varietal by far - it’s quite delicate and floral.…

Six names to look out for Rhys Vineyards Bitten by the Burgundy bug, software entrepreneur Kevin Harvey planted vines in his Woodside backyard in 1995. Before long he had founded Rhys Vineyards, which soon emerged as the source of some of California’s most interesting Pinot Noirs. Harvey and Rhys winemaker Jeff Brinkman spare no expense to farm five extreme hillside sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains, planted at high density with an exciting variety of vine material. The wines are some of California’s most Burgundian in style and character. Thomas Fogarty Established in the 1970s by Dr Thomas Fogarty, a heart surgeon and medical inventor, this winery farms eight estate vineyards – in total some 10.5ha – in the cool northern Skyline sub-region of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Recent vintages…

Visiting the Azores WHEN TO GO The Azores enjoys a year-round mild temperate climate, but April to October – the whale watching season – has the best weather, averaging 15°C-22.5°C. WHERE TO STAY International flights arrive at Ponta Delgada on São Miguel, the largest island. This bustling town has a wide choice of hotels and restaurants and a fantastic food market (cheese shop O Rei dos Queijos is unmissable; look out for São Jorge, a favourite Portuguese cheese). With its stylish rooftop bar and pool overlooking the harbour, and A Terra’s open kitchen focused on ‘locovore’ dining, cosmopolitan new five-star hotel Azor (www.azorhotel.com) is an excellent base. But do visit the island’s lush, green landscape with its hot springs and volcanic lagoons (Lagoa das Sete Cidades is especially stunning). In…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Champ Divin, Zéro Dosage Brut, Crémant de Jura, France 2013 90 £18 Tanners A great-value bottle-fermented fizz that is mainly Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir from a small biodynamic estate. Bone-dry, fresh and intense ripe apple and floral notes on a creamy palate with grilled almond characters. Persistence on the finish. Alc 13.5% Domaine Malmont, Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, France 2015 91 £21 Stannary St Wine Co Nicolas Haeni’s Roussanne vines are planted on a steep, terraced vineyard making it very labour intensive (hence ‘Malmont’,…

The judges Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is wine buyer for the Galvin restaurant group in London, and the winner of Best Wine List at the 2011 National Restaurant Awards. He was previously group sommelier and wine buyer for Corrigan’s Mayfair and Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and has also worked at Michelin-starred Umu. Michael Garner Garner is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 30 years. He works for specialist importer Tria Wines and taught for many years for the WSET. Garner co-wrote Barolo: Tar and Roses with Paul Merritt, and his second book, on the wines of Verona, is due for publication in 2017. Susan Hulme MW Hulme is a wine writer, judge and educator who specialises in Italian wines. She has…

PIEDMONT NEBBIOLO My top three Andrea Briccarello • Cordero di Montezemolo, Langhe Nebbiolo 2015 This incredible Langhe Nebbiolo, made from young vines in the La Morra area, really stunned me with its rich, intense character. It is very expressive, with freshness and incredible drinkability. 94 Drink 2017-2020 • Proprietà Sperino, Lessona 2011 Luca de Marchi grows Nebbiolo on very sandy, acidic soil, bringing charm and elegance, with intriguing precision in the tannins. Leather and spices on the nose add more complexity, with soft, dark fruit, texture and intensity. A true terroirdriven wine. 93 Drink 2019-2022 • Pelassa, Sot, Nebbiolo d’Alba 2013 In the sea of Langhe Nebbiolo, this really stood out for its incredible complexity and sheer finesse. Incredible wine showing lots of finesse and poise, with the slight age…

PANEL TASTING The results Diversity of style and sheer strength of character made for a challenging tasting, yet the grower Champagnes offer real value and interest, says Christelle Guibert  GEOFFROY, LAHAYE, LARMANDIER-BERNIER, Pierre Péters... not names on the tip of our tongues here in the UK, maybe. Yet these growers are seen on wine lists of some of the hippest places in New York. ‘Seriously cool people are flying in from Japan and New York for Champagne week in April,’ began Tim Hall, continuing: ‘They bow down with their candles lit and their rosaries in their hands when in front of Anselme Selosse (see p58) and one or two others. The cultishness is amazing but it hasn’t happened here yet – if it’s ever going to, that is.’ ‘A lot…

Outstanding 95–97pts André Jacquart, Expérience, 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs, Brut 95 ME 96 SF 95 TH 95 £37 Bottle Apostle, Huntsworth Wine, Scala Wine, Top Selection Since moving to its new facilities in the village of Vertus in 2004, Jacquart has been producing Champagnes of increasingly greater clarity and finesse. This cuvée is all Chardonnay from the grand cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and the premier cru Vertus, both of which are exceptionally chalky terroirs. About a third of the wine was vinified in barrel, and it was aged in bottle for four years before release, helping to bring Chardonnay’s naturally high acidity into a harmonious balance. ME This wine is bright yellow-gold in colour. The palate is showing fine Chardonnay character maturing well. It has excellent harmony and…

My top three Simon Field MW • Pierre Bertrand, 1er Cru, Brut New to me, this outstanding blend marries the three varieties to perfection, and, for class and panache, has a grande marque’s self-belief – which does not extend to an elevated price-tag, fortunately... 98 Drink 2018-2026 • Larmandier-Bernier, Longitude, 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut The genius here resides in combining a serious chalky sense of terroir with a generosity of rounded fruit. Bravo! 95 Drink 2018-2025 • La Villesenière, Harmony, Brut A tricky base year, a lot of oak used, and a far-from famous address in the Marne Valley leaves me perplexed as to why I enjoyed this so much. Exotic, indulgent, serious; a terrific example of well-judged ambition. 95 Drink 2017-2028…

Expert summary: Peter Liem Small they may be, but grower Champagnes are in the ascendancy, offering great breadth of personality, from quirky and individual to classic and food-focused styles  THIS TASTING FEATURED 100 grower Champagne estates, ranging from the highly renowned to the virtually unknown, both large and small. Launois Père et Fils, for example, is relatively large for a Champagne estate, with 21ha of vineyards, as is Pierre Moncuit with 20ha. Nathalie Falmet, on the other hand, owns 3.2ha of vines, while Fabrice Gass of Alexandre Filaine owns just 1ha. In addition, this tasting presented wines from across the Champagne appellation, from classical growing areas like the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims to lesser-known terroirs in the Côte des Bar, Coteaux du Morin and Massif de St-Thierry.…

Nina Caplan ‘Even if not sent there at Her Majesty’s pleasure, 19th-century Australia would have driven a man to drink’  AUSTRALIA’S WHITE SETTLERS barely drew breath before planting vines: even if they hadn’t been sent there at Her Majesty’s pleasure, 19th-century Terra Australis, hot and harsh, would have driven a man to drink. ‘He began making wine, seeing patients, and feeding the one to the other as ‘strengthening tonic’ South Australia was founded in 1836 on principles of free immigration, free trade and religious freedom, but the idealism was rickety: the British government declaring the land ‘waste and unoccupied’ was news, surely, to the Aboriginal people who had productively occupied it for 30,000 years. The state’s relationship with Europe was complex. Its capital, Adelaide, was named for England’s Queen; a…

THE DECANTER TRAVEL GUIDE TO Gaillac This characterful corner of France’s southwest boasts rural charm, authentic gastronomy and a unique range of experiences for wine lovers, reports local resident Andy Howard MW Photograph: Andy Howard MW. Maps: Maggie Nelson FACT FILE Planted area (AP) 3,300ha Production 150,000hl Main grape varieties Red Braucol White Mauzac Rare grapes varieties Red Duras, Prunelard White Loin de l’Oeil, Ondenc, Verdanel Producers 108 Co-ops 2 GAILLAC PROUDLY CLAIMS to be the oldest wine-producing area in France. Although other regions make similar assertions, wine was certainly being shipped from Gaillac in the 2nd century BC. The Tarn, a beautiful, easily accessible part of southwest France, is well loved as a holiday destination and yet the wines are still relatively unknown – and frustratingly unavailable. However, times…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Limniona Photograph: www.newwinesofgreece.com Not to be confused with the more widely planted Limnio from the island of Limnos, dark-skinned Limniona was on the verge of extinction until it was rescued in 2005 by Christos Zafeirakis in Thessaly, in the east of central mainland Greece, its region of origin. It is a late-ripening variety with big, thick-skinned berries that was traditionally found in field blends with Xinomavro but can on its own produce a range of wine styles, from supple, fresh and red-fruited to deeply coloured, rich, spicy, black-fruited wines that marry well with oak. While the renaissance of this variety began in Tyrnavos, the recognition of Limniona’s quality potential has led to new plantings in other parts of Greece, such as Macedonia (including Amyndeon)…

John Stimpfig ‘At age 17, I’d have guzzled it down… But he barely touched it’ SIXTEEN YEARS AGO, I bought a case of Château Léoville-Poyferré 2000 for my son to be handed over on his 21st birthday. Two years later, I did the same for my second son, with a case of Léoville-Barton 2002. My daughter will get a case of Pontet-Canet 2006. Unfortunately though, what seemed like three good ideas more than a decade ago aren’t necessarily working out quite as intended. For a start, my two boys’ relationship with wine is already startlingly different to my own. Most recently, on his 17th birthday, I offered the eldest a glass of Champagne (Deutz’s Cuvée William Deutz 2006, no less), which was specially opened in his honour. At his age,…

Letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK Something fishy I ENJOYED ANDY Howard MW’s article on Chablis ( June 2017 issue), until I got to the comment about fossil molluscs, ammonites and other invertebrates being responsible for the shellfish characteristics associated with Chablis. In our heads maybe, but in terms of soil science and geology, unlikely. The late Jurassic period was 152 to 157 million years ago. Do we really believe that dead oysters and squids could retain their seafood aromatics and taste for so many millions of years? And then be able to contribute any character to a wine, after being buried, compressed, heated to form fossils and bedrock and…

What I’ve been drinking this month I’ve been in Veneto over the last month – my reports from there can be consulted in ‘Jefford on Monday’ on www.decanter.com – and one of the wines I enjoyed there was called Possessioni Bianco from Serego Alighieri : the estate, or possessione, bought by Dante’s second son Pietro and, 664 years later, still owned by the family (no incessant moving for them). This gentle, haunting white is a blend of 80% Garganega with the balance from Sauvignon Blanc: fresh, fragrant and zesty to smell, then delicate and softly fruity on the palate. Peace and plenty in a glass.…

What I’ve been drinking The week before La Paulée is awash with Burgundy producers and tastings. But for me, the highlight is always the annual Domaine de la Romanée-Conti pre-release event with Aubert de Villaine. This year he was pouring the 2014 s at Le Bernardin. I’m cheating a bit because none of them are really ready for actual drinking. But the Richebourg thrilled me, even at this young age, with its gorgeously spicy, earthy nose and layers of harmonious red berry and spice flavours. I downed the whole glass.…

Walls’ picks: 25 reds ideal for a little chilling Domaine Georges Descombes, Morgon, Beaujolais, France 2015 93 £18 H2Vin A beautifully pastoral wine from a stalwart of minimal intervention Beaujolais, this is joyful, but far from frivolous. Fleshy, textured black cherry fruit and aromatic turned earth flow from this natural and effortless expression of Morgon. Drink 2017-2021 Alcohol 13% El Viejo Almacén, Huaso de Sauzal País, Maule Valley, Chile 2014 93 £30.70 Hedonism Renán Cancino rejects modern technology while turning his ancient, granite-grown País into a profoundly delicious wine. His lo-fi approach creates an aromatically wild wine with a tight, crystalline, saline finish. A great choice for thrill-seekers rather than purists. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 13.5% August Kesseler, N Pinot Noir, Rheingau, Germany 2012 92 £18.50 Justerini & Brooks Kesseler makes…

ALCOHOL IN NAPA In pursuit of ripeness Despite talk of a move towards balance and restraint, Napa Valley Cabernet has never been riper or higher in alcohol. William Kelley follows the story through four decades of cyclical change, and asks whether it has to be this way Photograph: PhotoAlto SAS / Alamy Stock Photo ‘Since humidity impedes photosynthesis, grapes in drier climates accumulate sugar faster’ WHAT IS RIPENESS? It’s a complex question. As grapes mature on the vine, sugar accumulates and acidity levels drop, while tannins and pigments develop – and not necessarily in synchrony. So ripeness is not a moment, but a continuum (see graph, p41): herbaceous spiciness gives way to bright fruit, which in turn segues into compote, dried fruit, and finally roasted aromas of coffee and grilled…

Barnes’ 10 to try: new horizons in Chile and Argentina Miguel Torres Chile, Santa Digna Estelado Rosé, Maule, Chile NV 89 £11.99-£14.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Fells, Roberts & Speight, Soho Wine Supply, Taste Fine Wines, Trinas Wines Torres is responsible for many innovations in Chile, including this sparkling wine from the País grape. A lively bubbly with fresh redcurrant and crisp citrus notes, it is Chile’s answer to pink cava. Drink 2017-2019 Alcohol 12% Aquitania, Sol de Sol Chardonnay, Traiguén, Malleco Valley, Chile 2012 93 £19.95 Stone Vine & Sun After two decades in cool-climate Malleco, Aquitania’s winemakers are well and truly in their stride. This barrel-fermented Chardonnay shows finesse and focus with delicate notes of citrus peel and roasted nuts. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5% Susana Balbo, Signature White Blend,…

A rare glimpse: Jacques Selosse, Collection Lieux-Dits Jacques Selosse, Collection Lieux-Dits £1,782-£3,122.40 Berry Bros & Rudd, Corney & Barrow, Define Food & Wine, Fine & Rare, Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism, In Vino Veritas, Roberson, Seckford This is a collection of six bottles which is available in the UK market only on very restricted allocation. The first two of the single-vineyard cuvées listed below, from Avize and Cramant, are only sold in the UK in this Collection Lieux-Dits set of wines. The other four wines are available individually from the stockists provided. Jacques Selosse, Les Chantereines, Avize NV 100 N/A UK +33 (0)3 26 57 53 56 Highly characterful, with a hint of resinous smoke, brandy butter and the texture of rough-woven cashmere. Heady, with unusual and fascinating flavours of baked…

SANTA CRUZ Kelley’s picks: top buys from the Santa Cruz Mountains Mount Eden Vineyards, Chardonnay 2013 94 £63 Roberson Lovely, reliably ageworthy cuvée. A reserved bouquet of almond cream, poached pear, wet stones and spring flowers introduces a deep, full-bodied wine with bright acidity, minerality and tension. Still tightly-wound and will unwind with a few years in the cellar. Drink 2019-2040 Alcohol 14% Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello Chardonnay 2014 94 POA Berry Bros & Rudd/Fields Morris & Verdin This wine flies somewhat under the radar, and the soon-to-be-released 2014 is a beauty. Ripe citrus, orchard fruit and pastry cream lead into a glossy, textural palate underpinned by bright acidity and minerality. Drink 2018-2033 Alc 14.2% Arnot-Roberts, Trout Gulch Chardonnay 2015 93 £49 Roberson Notes of apple, lemon pith and subtle…

Six to try from the Azores Azores Wine Co, António Maçanita, Arinto dos Açores Sur Lies, Pico, Portugal 2015 94 £40 Red Squirrel Crystalline and great purity yet with a prism of focused, intense flavours: mineral saline, citrus and very subtle vegetal and herbal notes (lemon barley and curry leaf). Finishes, firm, very fresh; terrific energy. Drink 2017-2022 Alcohol 13% Azores Wine Co, António Maçanita, Terrantez do Pico, Açores, Portugal 2015 92 £50 Red Squirrel An expressive, textural nose and palate with white pepper, ponzu, glimmers of pink grapefruit and green mango. Briny, earthy, pungently spicy undertones build on the lingering finish. Very singular. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12.5% Azores Wine Co, António Maçanita, Original Verdelho, Pico, Portugal 2015 89 £28-£35 Just Be Café, Red Squirrel, Vinarius A relatively fruity, cucumber-scented,…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards From the cellar Château La Conseillante, Pomerol A tasting running from old to young of Château La Conseillante’s 1985, 1990, 2001, 2005 and 2009 vintages, in the presence of the estate’s new technical director Marielle Cazaux, confirmed that La Conseillante is at the apex of the Pomerol pyramid of quality. With 11.8 hectares planted to 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc with an average age of 35 years, the property’s style is silky and rich with marvellous elegance and depth. Each vintage showed this to perfection, the 1985 charmingly mature with vigour for another 10 years, the…

PANEL TASTING Piedmont Nebbiolo Admirers of northwest Italy’s mercurial reds can find plenty of early enjoyment in the wines of DOCs Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba, says Susan Hulme MW Map: Maggie Nelson THE IDEA OF a Nebbiolo tasting that excludes the two most famous Piedmont DOCGs of Barolo and Barbaresco is timely, since Nebbiolo as a variety has never enjoyed such popularity, and Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba wines are becoming increasingly fashionable. This is partly because these two DOCs allow producers to make wines that are accessible when much younger, while also being available on the market sooner than Barolo or Barbaresco. Furthermore, Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d’Alba wines are far less expensive and can act as an introduction to the qualities of Nebbiolo, hopefully providing a stepping…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Gemma, Ruja, Langhe Nebbiolo 2015 Decanter average score: 93/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello 94 Michael Garner 93 Susan Hulme MW 92 POA Folly Wines Superb freshness, structure and length of exotic peppery fruit, underpinned by firm but ripe tannins. Drink 2017-2021 Alc 13.5% Giacomo Fenocchio, Langhe Nebbiolo 2015 91 AB 94 MG 90 SH 90 POA Armit Smoky and spicy pungency with liquorice and red cherry aromas. To taste, it’s very complex and intense with great ripeness but also plenty of tannins to bolster the spicy, savoury finish. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 14.5% Proprietà Sperino, Lessona 2011 91 AB 93 MG 92 SH 88 £55 Carruthers & Kent A wine of depth and terroir character, with a charming nose full of red forest fruit, spice and cola,…

Expert summary: Susan Hulme MW Piedmont’s ‘other’ Nebbiolo wines offer a great-value, approachable way to enjoy the grape’s charms without the cellaring requirements of their big-name cousins  AS A PANEL we were expecting to see more entries from the Alto Piemonte – more wines from, for example, Boca, Carema, Gattinara, Ghemme and Lessona. Of the 72 wines tasted, 52 were from Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, 14 from Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, three from Roero DOCG, and one each from Gattinara, Lessona and Langhe Rosso. This reflects what is available in the UK. ‘These are excellent, food-friendly wines: one reason why they are so popular on UK restaurant lists’ The quality was generally very high, with many wines more friendly and accessible than a typical young Barolo or Barbaresco. The best offered attractive…

The judges Michael Edwards Edwards originally trained in law. In 1968, he joined UK merchant Laytons, and in 2010 he won the Louis Roederer International Wine Book of the Year for The Finest Wines of Champagne. In 2014, Edwards was made a Confrère of St-Vincent de Vertus, the first non-Champenois to be admitted to this order. He blogs at michaelbulles.blogspot.co.uk Simon Field MW Simon Field joined Berry Bros & Rudd in 1998, having spent several years as a chartered accountant in the City. In addition to buying the Spanish and fortified ranges, he is also responsible for Champagne, Languedoc-Roussillon, the Rhône and the Loire. He gained his Master of Wine qualification in 2002. Tim Hall Hall is owner and director of specialist importer and events company Scala Wine, and a…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Guy Larmandier, Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Brut 94 ME 93 SF 94 TH 96 £34.95 Berry Bros & Rudd Powerful, with almost a tannic grip and hints of gunpower, incense. Feels drier than most, with serious rigour. Plenty of gastronomic potential. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12% Fleury, Fleur de l’Europe, Brut 92 ME 90 SF 94 TH 91 £34 Vintage Roots Relatively mature nose that marries herbs, currants and crème brûlée hints, tempered by a languid palate kept neatly in check with a tight structure. Drink 2017-2027 Alc 12.5% Gosset-Brabant, Noirs d’Aÿ, Grand Cru, Brut 92 ME 91 SF 93 TH 91 £52 Nickolls & Perks Mature fig and baking spice aromas – hinting at use of reserve wine. Bubbles dance across the palate. A little…

My top three Tim Hall • Pierre Bertrand, 1er Cru, Brut A complete unknown, leftfield gem for me. The singing first taste is still in my head. All lemon posset, zingy-crisp, deep flowing complexity and harmony. I was bewitched. 98 Drink 2018-2026 • Guy Larmandier, Cramant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Brut To me, this writes a classic definition of ‘elegance’ in Champagne. Finely etched and pointed, with nice dry texture but sunny lemons coming through. Gentle humming carry-through too. All the impressive fun of the Côte des Blancs Chardonnay fair. 96 Drink 2017-2022 • Minière F&R, Brut Zéro, Zéro Dosage Ticking boxes for grower Champagne fans, crunchingly dry and overtly barrel-fermented. I tasted Minière a year ago in Champagne and was impressed. Off-piste, from Hermonville, north of Reims. Lemon…

EXPERT’S CHOICE Rueda Verdejo These whites from Spain’s Castilla y León region offer complex, ageworthy and often oaked styles, plus fresh, approachable quaffers, says Sarah Jane Evans MW  SITUATED HIGH UP on a chilly plateau, Rueda is the only white wine denomination in Castilla y León. Its soils are gravelly, pebbly and sandy, and the countryside is austere. Yet from this often extreme climate come young, refreshing whites from the Verdejo grape, all about citrus, white flowers, fennel and fresh herbs, with an edge of bitterness. Verdejo makes up some 85% of the vineyard. A wine labelled ‘Rueda’ will have a minimum of 50% Verdejo, with the rest most likely from Viura. A ‘Rueda Verdejo’ will be at least 85% Verdejo. ‘From this often extreme climate come refreshing whites, all…

RESTAURANTS Lorne London By Fiona Beckett What is it about restaurants and railway stations? Think of almost any major London terminus – Euston, Paddington, Waterloo – and it’s a gastronomic desert. As was Victoria, until now, when it suddenly seems set to be as hip as Hackney. Wilton Road admittedly is still on the edge of the action, barring the excellent A Wong (serving some of the best dim sum in town). But now, incongruously situated in a row of dodgy diners, we have Lorne, which has been set up by former River Café sommelier Katie Exton and chef Peter Hall, who worked together at Chez Bruce and The Square. It has very much the air of a neighbourhood restaurant – in fact, with its blonde wood trellising and copious…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge This month’s experts Jane Anson is Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent Sue Style is a wine and food writer based in Alsace Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer and consultant Alcohol and en primeur I am fighting my own little battle against high-alcohol wines, and only buy wine less than 14%. I like to buy en primeur, but this information is often not available. If a wine in tank or barrel is sufficiently finished for detailed tasting notes to be given, enticing us to buy, why is this information not available? Mike Dean, Tiffield, Towcester, Northants Jane Anson replies: I couldn’t agree more, and wage my own battle to give this information wherever…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also included.…

Wine Legends Le Pin, Pomerol 1982 Bordeaux, France A legend because… Le Pin seemed to burst into view overnight. The first vintage made by Jacques Thienpont had been in 1979, and was sold cheaply. Before then the wine had been sold extensively in Belgium, but was not widely known. Once the outstanding quality of the 1982 was recognised, notably thanks to Parker’s perfect score, prices shot up on the secondary market. Looking back In 1982, Le Pin consisted of a single hectare, next to a pine tree. Jacques Thienpont, from a Belgian family with extensive interests in the wine trade in Bordeaux, had recognised the quality of the soil some years earlier. The original idea was to incorporate the parcel into Vieux Château Certan close by, but when that didn’t…

Letter of the month Bargain hunt EVERYONE LOVES A bargain, but can you really make a decent wine for a tenner? The bewildering variation in scores of wines that commonly hit above £40 a bottle lead folk like me to exercise a high degree of caution. Your ‘Weekday Wines’ are a nod in my direction, but I still hesitate to spend much above £10 a bottle. Some of the best bargains come to light when an unknown supermarket wine trounces all comers in one of your tastings. So it happened in 2010, when Vinalba’s Malbec-Syrah 2008 from Patagonia scooped a DWWA Trophy. As I picked up six bottles at Asda for about £6 each (on offer at the time), I wondered whether such an inexpensive wine would age well, so…

Jane Anson ‘Wine at its heart is about individuals believing in their own potential’ I’M READING A wonderful book at the moment, An Unlikely Vineyard by Deirdre Heekin. Her property is located in the wilds of upstate Vermont, USA, and the resulting wine, La Garagista, is made in tiny quantities. The book tracks Heekin’s journey from sommelier to enthusiastic gardener to fully fledged winemaker. It puts wine firmly in the context of the wider farming landscape and the experience of sharing it with good friends and good food. It’s inspiring and also extremely practical – I am learning, for example, how to tell soil health by observing which plants are growing in the vicinity, and also which cover crops make great salads. Heekin is pushing at the boundaries of what…

DECANTER PROMOTION Alternative Australia Photographs: Chalmers Wines; Wine Australia If you think Australia is only about Chardonnay, Cabernet and Shiraz, then think again. From Assyrtiko to Zweigelt, Australia is bursting with new arrivals and lesser known grape varieties, which are grabbing the attention of critics, sommeliers and wine drinkers around the world. The rise of alternative grape varieties hasn’t happened overnight. Nostalgic for a taste of home, the Italian settlers in Victoria’s King Valley planted Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Arneis in the 1950s. Today, Italian varieties lead the charge thanks to Bruce and Jenni Chalmers – co-founders of the Australian Alternative Variety Wine Show – who had planted over 70 different Italian varieties by the year 2000. The last two decades have seen a surge in interest and in plantings of…

Quick tips for chilling your reds The ideal solution is a dedicated wine fridge for reds from a reputable supplier such as Eurocave. But if you don’t have the space or the budget, then try the following to lightly chill your reds: • Place the bottle in an ice bucket filled with ice and some water for about 10-15 minutes, but do take regular sips to make sure you’re not overchilling the wine • A cool sleeve, such as the Le Creuset Cooler Sleeve, is less messy. Since most of these can be flattened, they can also be used as a cushion to keep decanters of red wine cool. Alternatively, use a decanter with an ice compartment • If your red has been stored at around 20°C, pop it in…

DECANTER PROMOTION Kayra Wines The next chapter in Turkey’s long winemaking history For a country with such a long winemaking history - Anatolia, it is claimed, is the birthplace of wine - many believe that only now is Turkey starting to realise its potential for producing world class wines thanks to a handful of dynamic, new wineries such as Kayra. “I’ve made wines in countries all around the world, and none of it prepared me for this”, says Kayra’s Californian Head Winemaker Daniel O’Donnell, who has notched up 20 years’ worth of winemaking expertise in places such as hometown St Helena, Italy, Chile and Australia. “Such a broad range of climatic conditions, soil types and elevations. Such potential! Such a huge grapegrowing culture … but little to no viticultural culture.”…

Kelley’s picks: balance and ripeness in California Cabernet Maybach, Materium 2013 97 £450-£488 Fine & Rare, Hedonism Arresting aromas of wild plum, blackberry, cassis and rich spice are followed by a wine of striking volume and symmetry on the palate. From a site in east Oakville which retains amazing acidity, even at very high sugars, Materium is texturally broad and seamless, but also unusually pure and delineated. Drink 2018-2040 Alcohol 14.5% Dunn Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain 1997 96 £168 Wilkinson Vintners At the peak of its powers, now bursting with black fruit, graphite, woodsmoke and hints of tar and truffle. On the palate the wine is rich, plush and generous, but well balanced, with great length and depth; a certain suppleness nods to the vintage’s warmth, but it’s by…

Regional profile Santa Cruz Mountains Born of the geological turmoil that created the California landscape, this high terrain is home to a tenacious breed of winemaker, with the focus on wines of balance and longevity, reports William Kelley Photograph: Mick Rock/Cephas PERCHED HIGH ABOVE the Pacific, the hillside vineyards of the Santa Cruz Mountains bask in splendid isolation. Exploring this landscape’s precipitous escarpments and wooded ridges, the hustle and bustle of nearby San Francisco feels a world away. It’s only at sunset that modernity intrudes, the lights of Silicon Valley shimmering on the horizon below. Both Burgundy and Bordeaux varieties excel in this rugged appellation, conveying a singular sense of place: vibrant fruit is tempered by savoury nuance, while tensile tannins and bright acidity offer the promise of remarkable longevity.…

SOMMELIERS Rise of the Super Somms Faster than a speeding bullet? Perhaps not, but the top modern proponents of what was once a staid profession have shot to prominence in ways that go far beyond the confines of the restaurant walls. Elin McCoy reports Photograph: Thomas Skovsende. Illustration: Lennart Gäbel ‘Sommeliers have become the wine counterpart to celebrity chefs’ ON A SPRING day in March, the private dining room at New York’s Le Bernardin restaurant was filled with worshipful tasters eager to sample Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s 2014 pre-releases (see p18, ‘What I’ve been drinking’). The majority were the city’s top sommeliers, whose presence at the exclusive event just goes to show how powerful they’ve become. Today’s ‘super somms’ belong to a very different breed than those haughty, pompous French…

The Spurrier selection Clos Canarelli, Figari Blanc, Tarabuccetta, Corsica, France 2015 92 £35 H2Vin From 100% Vermentino on biodynamically farmed granite soils, vinified with indigenous yeasts and 50% malolactic fermentation: lovely floral nose and white summer fruit palate. Clarity, purity and a fine sense of place; perfect with seafood. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 13.5% Oliver’s Taranga, HJ Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 2013 92 £25.25 Wanderlust Wine From a block planted in 1948, vinified with indigenous yeasts and malolactic in small French oak: rich blackberry fruit, with natural concentration and vigour, fine and smooth texture with McLaren Vale’s spice and freshness. Seductively good now, but will repay keeping. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.5% Seresin Estate, Tatou Pinot Noir, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013 94 £35-£40 Davy’s, Hedonism, Wine Reserve, Wine…

PANEL TASTING The results The Nebbiolo wines of Piedmont outside Barolo and Barbaresco offer both fruity approachability and good food-matching versatility, reports Christelle Guibert NEBBIOLO IS SYNONYMOUS with two of Piedmont’s most famous and finest wines, but what’s happening beyond Barolo and Barbaresco? ‘The exciting thing about this tasting is that it shows another side of Nebbiolo and expands its offer,’ declared Michael Garner. ‘It shows a frank, fruitier style and the primary aromas and flavours that Nebbiolo is also very good at.’ Andrea Briccarello echoed this, adding: ‘A lot of people have never experienced Nebbiolo because of the price-tags associated with Barolo and Barbaresco. This category allows restaurants to serve them by the glass, so consumers can try them and have a feel for what Nebbiolo is about without…

My top three Michael Edwards • Pierre Bertrand, 1er Cru, Brut This wine has terrific intensity of flavour and fine purity. Its richness is in tune with its elegant acidity, freshness and drive. Complete. 98 Drink 2018-2026 • Nicolas Maillart, Platine, Brut This is far superior to a blockbuster, being finely drawn and showing real class for a non-vintage Champagne. It’s fragrant and floral, revealing both citrus and red orchard fruit. It has structure, maturity and tension. 95 Drink 2017-2026 • Gosset-Brabant, Noirs d’Aÿ, Grand Cru, Brut This wine was notable for its classic balance of blanc de noirs, Pinot Noir weight, in conjunction with the added grand cru personality and complexity that comes from the top Aÿ sites in the Marne Valley. 91 Drink 2017-2024…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) Adnams, Suffolk (www.adnams.co.uk) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Ake & Humphris, Yorkshire (www.akeandhumphris.co.uk) Albion Wine Shippers, London WC1 (www.albionwineshippers.co.uk) Alexander Wines, Glasgow (www.alexander-wines.co.uk) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Amps Fine Wines, Northants (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Armit Wines, London (www.armit.co.uk) Askew Wine, London (www.askewine.co.uk) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Auriol Wines, Hampshire (01252 843 190) Bancroft, London (www.bancroftwines.com) Barwell & Jones, Ipswich (www.barwellandjones.com) Bat & Bottle, Oakham (www.batwine.co.uk) Baythorne Hall, Essex (www.baythornehall.co.uk) Bedales, London (www.bedaleswines.com) Bentleys Wine Merchants, Ludlow (www.bentleyswine.com) Berry Bros & Rudd, London (www.bbr.com) Bibendum PLB, London (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Black Dog Wine Agency, Cheshire (www.blackdogwineagency.co.uk) Blanco & Gomez, London (020 7352 8680) Bottle Apostle, London (www.bottleapostle.com) Buckingham Schenk, Slough (www.buckingham-schenk.co.uk) Buon Vino, N Yorks (www.buonvino.co.uk) Burgess & Hall…

Sixpenny Sydney By Fiona Beckett How hip are you? I ask that because the most talked-about restaurants nowadays tend to be off the beaten track and involve ingredients and techniques that neither you nor I have heard of. Sixpenny is no exception. Located in the former industrial area of Stanmore, now a quiet residential suburb of Sydney, it’s a modest neighbourhood restaurant offering an unusually imaginative ‘dego’ (as Aussies endearingly refer to degustation menus), borne to the table by solemn-looking young chefs. It being lunch, we opt for six rather than eight courses, which still turns out to be a fair amount of food. But we gasp at each course as it arrives. Strips of ‘blood-baked’ beetroot coiled around a spiced venison tartare looks more as if it belongs in…