Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2017 i Decanter

In brief English sparkling wine is to be served by British Airways to its first class passengers for the first time. Bolney Wine Estate Blanc de Blancs 2013 will feature as the airline’s guest sparkling wine for six months, alongside Champagnes such as Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle. California’s top winemaking school, UC Davis, is to start selling wine made by its students following a change in the law. Previously, all wines made by students had to be disposed of, but the wines – some made from grapes grown in key Napa vineyards – can now be sold, fetching up to $80 to $100 each. The proceeds will benefit the school’s wine programmes. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW has been invested as a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino in…

Andrew Jefford ‘A table or two of fortifieds is the civilised apogee of a wine-tasting life’ ONE OF THE highlights of the last tasting year was a serious look, in different locations and on different occasions, at a trio of the world’s fortified wine genres – those of Jerez, Madeira and Roussillon. There’s always a challenge to such tastings – namely alcohol; lashings of it. Unthinkingly, one adjusts one’s sip size, though; and in any case, sugar and/or the concentration of aroma and flavour brought by long ageing processes means a certain intensity of personality is assured. You might have to take three sips to ‘get to the bottom’ of a table wine; one sip is usually enough for a fortified. That intensity and concentration guarantees excitement; and the kind…

What I’ve been drinking this month Croft’s 1963 was enjoyed over Christmas. That vintage remains the benchmark year for Port, with a raft of declarations. It is perhaps not the most legendary of the 1963 Ports, but is still a lovely wine. The colour is still amazingly fresh, if fading to russet around the rim, and on the palate intense plum fruit merges with softer notes of rose, crème caramel and liquorice, cinnamon and tobacco. Generous and very drinkable, it has many more years left in it.…

Vermentino This variety is loved by winemakers for its easy nature and adaptability. And for consumers, it offers a range of styles from fresh and zippy to rich and aromatic. Richard Baudains and Carla Capalbo recommend some of their favourites from the three prime regions of Liguria, Tuscany and Sardinia Photograph: Carla Capalbo THINK OF ITALIAN whites and you might picture the north – green, pre-alpine slopes and light, crisp and dry wines. Vermentino is the opposite in everything. It is Mediterranean. It is a sunshine variety. It absorbs the sun’s heat and light and returns it in wines which have a lovely fragrance, generous round texture, deep flavours and nearly always a whiff of saltiness, which, although it is fantasy, one cannot but help associate with sea breezes and…

Sardinia: wines to try Capichera, Isola dei Nuraghi 2015 93 £36.50-£39 Eurowines, Vini Italiani An IGT wine. You can sense the barrel ageing on the nose here, along with peach, citrus and macchia (garrigue) notes. Its structural strength and elegance make this a wine for ageing, with a dynamism underpinned by breadth and salinity. Long, engaging finish; a food wine that will only gain in complexity. Drink 2017-2021 Alc 14.5% Masone Mannu, Petrizza, Vermentino di Gallura 2014 92 £14.60-£17 Exel Wines, Hay Wines, Les Caves de Pyrene, The Smiling Grape Co An impressive wine from a great vintage in Sardinia. Of pure local Vermentino, it’s developing the intriguing petrol nose found in aged Rieslings. On the palate it’s energised and expansive, with that saline tension Vermentino can channel even with…

Brook’s view: a vertical of Masseto Masseto 1988 95 £744.40 Hedonism Muted nose with a lightly balsamic, savoury tone, with fruit behind. It’s broad, juicy, chocolatey and still tannic but not tough, with structure and firmness. Angular from the acidity but no rawness. Welcome freshness on the long, menthol finish. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13% Masseto 1998 97 £598.70-£696.10 Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Hedonism, JF Tobias Opulent, smoky, plummy aromas – amazingly youthful. Very rich attack: suave and fleshy, with great depth of flavour and surprisingly fresh acidity. Still shows admirable tension and balance, and displays mocha as well as dark fruit tones. Brooding and long; lots of life ahead. Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14.5% Masseto 2006 97 £560(ib)-£992 Albany Vintners, Berry Bros Exchange, Crump Richmond Shaw, Cult Wines, Fine…

Brook’s picks: 10 top Carmignano reds Colline San Biagio 2011 91 N/A UK www.collinesanbiagio.it Subdued yet quite oaky, cherry nose. Sleek and concentrated, this has rich fruit on a palate that is elegant as well as intense, with good acidity. A harmonious wine with grip and persistence, and a long, chocolatey finish. Drink 2017-2028 Alcohol 14% Ambra, Montalbiolo, Riserva 2005 90 £15 (2010) Hedonist Wines Bright, lean cherry nose, reflecting the 75% Sangiovese, but there’s a cool mintiness too. Medium-bodied yet graceful and sleek, showing poise and freshness. Fine length. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 13.5% Capezzana, Trefiano, Riserva 2010 90 £27.83-£34.99 Christopher Keiller, Eclectic Tastes, Exel, The Fine Wine Co, Wilde Wines The cherry-scented nose is intense, ripe and elegant. Suave and concentrated, this is still youthful, its rich fruit supported…

Livingstone-Learmonth’s top 30 southern Rhônes Wines are listed within their appellations from north to south, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. They are all red wines. Vinsobres Famille Perrin, Les Hauts de Julien 91 £15.83 (in bond)-£26.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Big Red Wine, Tanners, The Wine Society Big, ripe bouquet of black cherry and mocha oak. Thick coulis fruits in a deep, insistent palate that ends coolly. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14.5% Rasteau Domaine Rabasse Charavin, Abel Charavin 92 £14.40 Georges Barbier Sturdy black-fruit bouquet. A generous wine that hits the line with brio. It is alcohol-charged, but without heat. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 16% Domaine Combe Julière, Tradition 91 £23.28 Wineman Rounded, forward red berry nose and an open palate led by garrigue and Grenache, a natural wine of…

And the winner isÉ La Stoppa, Ageno, Emilia, Emilia-Romagna, Italy 2011 94 Simon Woolf 95 Andrew Jefford 95 Sarah Jane Evans MW 92 £24.10-£28 Exel, Hay Wines, Les Caves de Pyrene, Ottolenghi, Vini Italiani Who would have thought that a defiantly tannic orange wine made with 30 days of maceration would triumph in this tasting? Yet triumph it did, proving that Malvasia di Candia Aromatica (the dominant variety here) takes to skin contact like bees to a honeypot. La Stoppa’s 50-hectare organic estate in Emilia-Romagna has been established for more than a century, with the enigmatic Elena Pantaleoni its grande dame for the past 23 years. She prefers the term ‘artisanal’ to the more nebulous ‘natural’ for her wines. Simon Woolf A full-bodied, spicy and honeyed wine with camomile and…

Andrew Jefford’s top 10 picks from the tasting ‘I’m convinced we will see more wine made in this way in future’ My aim with this tasting was to maintain as open a palate as possible, to enjoy whatever struck me as appealing, and to describe those wines with enthusiasm. It’s impossible to ignore the extent to which this line of experimental enquiry is stimulating and intriguing even ‘conventional’ producers, so I’m convinced we will see more wine made in this way in future; I’m also convinced that the success rate of natural wines will steadily improve. This tasting, indeed, contained fewer repellent wines than I had expected. I don’t, however, share any of the ideological tenets of the movement, so I didn’t feel that the wines were ‘better’ for me,…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Man of the Year begins a new column in which he hand-picks fine wines for drinking and laying down, all priced from £25 From the cellar Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle La Chapelle is a very special cuvée from estate vineyards in Hermitage crus Les Bessards (granite soils), Le Méal (limestone and silica) and Les Rocoules (limestone and clay). Caroline Frey celebrated 10 years of her family purchasing Jaboulet Aîné with a tasting of nine vintages in London. Without question, current vintages maintain the reputation: 2014 – already floral with lovely precision and depth, 95 points, drink 2020-2040; 2013 – richer, black bramble fruits, a great wine, 97, 2020-2045; 2012 – open and opulent with richness and depth, 94,…

The judges Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is wine buyer for the Galvin restaurant group in London and the winner of Best Wine List at the 2011 National Restaurant Awards. He was previously group sommelier and wine buyer for Corrigan’s Mayfair and Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and has also worked at Michelin-starred Umu. Michael Garner Garner is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 30 years. He works for specialist importer Tria Wines and taught for many years for the WSET. Garner co-wrote Barolo: Tar and Roses with Paul Merritt, and his second book, on the wines of Verona, is due for publication in 2017. Susan Hulme MW Hulme is a wine writer, judge and educator who specialises in Italian wines. She became…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA Recommended 86–89pts Commended 83-85pts • Bolla, Rhetico, Classico 2010 85, 16.5%, 2017-2021, £24 Matthew Clark • Bolla, Le Origini, Classico Riserva 2010 85, 16.5%, 2017-2020, £37 Matthew Clark • Cantina Negrar, Domini Veneti, Classico 2012 85, 15.5%, 2017-2021, £25 Alivini, Inverarity Morton • Corte Aleardi, Classico 2011 85, 16.5%, 2017-2020, £42.75 (2010) Friarwood • Dario e Fabio Bonazzi, Monte Gradela, Classico 2011 85, 15.5%, 2017-2021, N/A UK www.bonazziwine.it • Fabiano, Classico 2013 85, 15.5%, 2017-2022, £30.99-£34.99 AC Gallie, Alexander Hadleigh, Alexander Wines, Bablake, Corks Out, Ellis of Richmond, Ex Cellar, Field & Fawcett, George Hill, Old Butcher’s Wine Cellars, RS Wines, Sandhams, Stainton Wines, Soho Wines, The Wine Reserve, Woburn Wine Cellar • Guerrieri Rizzardi, 3 Cru, Classico 2012 85, 16%, 2017-2020, £27-£30 Field & Fawcett,…

My top three Susan Hulme MW • Le Salette, La Marega, Classico 2013 A producer new to me but I was impressed by the precise expression of flavours and effortless weight and flow, expressing the lighter but charming 2013 vintage. The La Marenga vineyard is in Fumane, a valley that is further west and nearer to the cooling effects of Lake Garda. 95 Drink 2018-2023 • Tommasi, Ca’Florian, Classico Riserva 2009 Ca’ Florian is a 5ha single hillside vineyard which has been in the Tommasi family since 1959. The vines are 30 years old so deeper roots and a cooler, more water-retaining clay soil may have played their part in coping with this hot vintage. 95 Drink 2017-2020 • Guerrieri Rizzardi, Calcarole, Classico 2011 From the Calcarole vineyard where 30-year-old…

The results From fresh, unoaked wines to more serious, complex examples – including from the new Nizza DOCG – there’s great interest and value to be had, says John Stimpfig ONCE AGAIN, BARBERA d’Asti came up trumps with our tasting trio, who not only enjoyed the wines but also had their positive impressions about the variety and region soundly reinforced. According to Michael Garner: ‘This tasting confirmed what a fascinating and versatile grape variety Barbera is because, in all its guises – from the lovely simple fresh, unoaked versions to more complex, serious wines – it works really well.’ Andrea Briccarello was no less effusive and pointed out the innate advantages the variety affords: ‘What I was looking for – and found – in these mostly young Barberas was good…

PANEL TASTING Highly Recommended 90–94pts Vietti, La Crena, Superiore Nizza 2013 94 AB 93 MG 95 SH 95 POA Bibendum PLB An exuberant and vinous nose of blueberries and oaky-toned dark fruit flows effortlessly on to a palate full of clove and black pepper. There is a real personality to this wine, all underpinned by excellent acidity. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 14.5% Vigne dei Mastri, SuperBa, Superiore 2012 93 AB 92 MG 92 SH 95 N/A UK www.vignedeimastri.it Immediate sweet oak aromas come across, intermingling with blueberry jam and ripe dark cherry. Dark chocolate flavours are encased in firm, smoky oak and refined tannins. It is a powerful, robust and youthful style. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 15.5% Cascina Giovinale, Anssèma, Superiore Nizza 2011 92 AB 90 MG 92 SH 95 N/A UK…

My top three Michael Garner • Ferraris, La Regina, Superiore 2013 An extrovert style of Barbera: big, bold and ripe. Sourced from old vines, the grapes are fermented in wood and the wine bottled without filtration. With lashings of juicy, berry fruit and positive peppery aromas, this is a hedonist’s delight. 95 Drink 2017-2021 • Olim Bauda, La Villa 2015 Broad, ripe and generous, with vibrant acidity to keep the rich, smoky-toned fruit in check. A textbook version of the youthful style of Barbera which will drink beautifully over the next few years. Gloriously uncomplicated! 95 Drink 2018-2021 • Cascina Gilli, Le More 2015 Another classic example of how good the more simple and straightforward style of Barbera can be. No need for oak: plum, red cherry, leather and tobacco…

EXPERT’S CHOICE Soave This vibrant denomination in Italy’s Veneto region is going from strength to strength, says Michael Garner, who picks 18 wines to try which showcase the three main styles ‘What really sets today’s Soave apart is a scintillating, mineral-toned freshness that barely seems to diminish with bottle age’ THESE ARE EXCITING times for Soave: a new generation of winemakers inspired by the groundwork of their fathers is taking the Garganega grape to heights which would have been undreamed of a few decades ago. Meanwhile, the denomination’s other mainstay variety, the sadly neglected Trebbiano di Soave (aka Verdicchio in the Marche) is also starting to make a comeback. Three main styles of wine are evident today. The oak-aged versions fit the blueprint of ‘traditional’ Soave which emerged onto the…

RESTAURANTS Norn, Edinburgh By Fiona Beckett There are three different purées with the seared cauliflower and hazelnuts. ‘See if you can guess what they are,’ encourages our server. Er, miso? Raisin? we venture. Turns out it’s cauliflower and pear, shallot and parsley. So, 1-0 to them, but who cares? The dish is delicious. Norn (the ancient Celtic language) is the hottest ticket in Edinburgh. Located in the former docklands area of Leith, it’s a Noma-esque temple to localism and seasonality, saved from pretension by its charming, earnest young staff led by chef-owner Scott Smith, formerly of the Peat Inn. The bread – which arrives after a few amuses, including a sliver of smoked duck and an ingredient I’d never heard of called yacon (a South American tuber that tastes like…

TRAVEL My Sydney Away from the bridge and opera house, this fast-paced Aussie city boasts endless things to see, do, eat and drink. Our insider’s guide from a wine-loving local will ensure you hit the best spots Samantha Payne THERE’S NOTHING QUITE like Sydney in the early hours of the morning, the stillness in the air before the loud roar of the city takes over. I could be walking home after an evening at a new bar or restaurant with friends and fellow wine colleagues, or perhaps I’ve risen before the sun (like many Sydneysiders) to walk along one of city’s well-worn paths, such as Hyde Park or by the harbour front and down past the Opera House. It’s the peace and quiet that allows the city to flood my…

Fine wine price watch Below are the most recent merchant case prices (equivalent 12 x 750ml bottles) for wines that are actively traded among a global network of merchants on Liv-ex, the fine wine market. Liv-ex records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe. All prices are in GBP and exclude sales tax. The numbers in red indicate those prices which have changed since last month. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The majority of the index consists of Bordeaux wines – a reflection of the overall market – although wines from Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Italy are also included.…

John Stimpfig ‘It is more important than ever to find the lone, sane voices you can trust’ ONE OF THE many things that have concerned me over the past year has been the way in which experts in their fields have been subjected to increasing levels of disdain and contempt. In today’s trigger-happy and vitriolic social media world, too many people are far too willing to ‘share’ their often bizarre and belligerent views. Factor in political or commercial spin, fake news and alternative facts, and the inevitable result is more heat than light. It seems harder than ever to know who to trust or what to believe. To my mind, such attacks on experts are usually wrong, misguided and dangerous. Surely, it depends on their knowledge, background, integrity and track…

What I’ve been drinking this month I seem to have had flu for much of the past month, so it hasn’t been great on the drinking front. But one fine bottle that went down shortly before I succumbed was the Exton Park, Pinot Meunier Rosé NV , an English sparkling wine (not the demeaning ‘British Fizz’) crafted on chalk-soiled vineyards on the Hampshire Downs by Corinne Seely. I had been publicly sceptical about the potential of both Pinots in the UK, but this crystalline, coruscating, redcurrant-fruited sparkler proved me definitively wrong.…

ITALY Southern Italy’s 10 hidden gems You may have to go off the beaten track a little, but there are top-quality wines to be found in Italy’s hot south, says Susan Hulme MW, who selects great examples from 10 of her favourite producers Illustration: Juliet Percival/Illustration Limited  SOUTHERN ITALY HAS so much to offer in terms of value-for-money wines, but you can also find great quality and excitement. ‘What they have created is an explosion of vivid, delicious wines that are full of personality’ With a warm Mediterranean climate, distinctive and characterful grape varieties and a long history of winemaking that goes back to the time of ancient Greece and Rome, it has the potential to rival the great wine regions. Yet as recently as the mid-1990s, southern Italian wines…

Tuscany: wines to try Salustri, Narà, Vermentino 2015 90 N/A UK www.salustri.it Dark blossoms, rich peach, pear and fennel seed aromas and a mineral nuance. The glossy, ripe fruit palate has a lovely smooth, round middle and a long, aromatic finish. Very Mediterranean. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole Vermentino, Bolgheri 2015 89 £16.25-£19.75 AG Wines, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Eclectic Tastes, GP Brands, Harrods, Harrogate Fine Wine Co, Just in Cases, Loki, Noel Young, The Drink Shop, The Wine Reserve, Winedirect Late-harvest nose of ripe fruit, rose petals and spice, with a suggestion of fern and heather. Round and fleshy on the palate with flavours of peach and candied citrus peel. Almonds and aromatic herbs linger on the finish. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 14% Antonio Camillo, Vermentino, Maremma Toscana…

DECANTER PROMOTION Lambrusco Resurgent! Now attracting the interest of sommeliers and foodies the world over, Lambrusco is a simple wine with surprising complexities “We all like wines with a story to tell, with roots and tradition, a firm link with a specific territory.” Anselmo Chiarli of Cleto Chiarli and Chiarli 1860 Photographs: Carlo Guttadauro “Lambrusco is a simple wine, easy to drink, convivial, good with different cuisines; it occupies a precise market sector and does not need to compete with other prestigious Italian and international wines.” Ermi Bagni, Director of the Modena and Reggio Emilia Consorzios Finally recovering from the “dash to quantity” in the 1980s that ruined the reputation of what has always been a wine appreciated for its approachability rather than its ageing ability, modern incarnations of…

DECANTER PROMOTION Casa Vitivinicola Tinazzi Unique experiences in wine tourism at both ends of the Italian peninsula “…wine tastings, cooking classes, and tours designed to explore all aspects of Italian lifestyle…” Founded on the shores of Garda Lake in 1968, Casa Vitivinicola Tinazzi is the story of a legacy that spans three generations and two regions. It all started almost 50 years ago, when Eugenio Tinazzi decided to enter the wine industry with his son Gian Andrea, who was only 18 years old, but already driven by a proactive and entrepreneurial spirit. The success of the winery reflected the increasingly high reputation of Valpolicella wines, Amarone and Ripasso above all, which Casa Vitivinicola Tinazzi has always mastered, receiving international acclaim for both its Ca’ de’ Rocchi “La Bastia” Amarone della…

Decanter’s natural wine charter As there is no strict definition of ‘natural wine’, deciding the entry criteria for samples for this tasting was not easy. To help, we sought advice from members of the industry noted for their expertise in natural wines: Doug Wregg from UK importer/retailer Les Caves de Pyrene, which is behind The Real Wine Fair; Isabelle Legeron MW, the creator of the RAW wine fairs in London, New York and Berlin; David Harvey of UK shipper and retailer Raeburn; Monty Waldin, author and consultant on organic, biodynamic and sustainable viticulture; and Simon Woolf, a writer who specialises in organic, biodynamic and natural wines. After collating the responses, we came up with our own Decanter charter of quality for natural wines which we used as a…

Sarah Jane Evans MW’s top 10 picks from the tasting ‘My top wines were full of energy and freshness’ A tasting like this is a pleasure. I’m not looking to finesse differences in vineyard sites. Instead, with diverse (mainly European) wines, my aim is enjoyment, finding individual wines I can confidently share with friends. Importantly, as it’s a blind tasting, there’s less chance of a wine scoring well just because it’s famous in the natural wine world. Given the often heated, divisive debate around these wines, I was pleased to find plenty to recommend, scoring 32 wines 90 points or more. My top wines were full of energy and freshness. Only seven wines scored lower than 82 points – my personal no-no being those that appear to be still fermenting.…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA Outstanding 95–97pts Cà dei Maghi, Classico 2011 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello 95 Michael Garner 95 Susan Hulme MW 95 N/A UK www.cadeimaghi.it Just 2,000 bottles a year are produced from 2ha in one of Fumane’s top vineyards, Monte Sant’Urbano. While the average age of the vines is about 50 years old, winemaker Paolo Creazzi notes that some are planted on their original, pre-phylloxera rootstocks and therefore easily centenarians. The elegant, spicy and aromatic style shows the classic traits of Fumane valley wines. Creazzi’s first Amarone vintage was 2009, so this tiny 4.5ha estate is already showing great promise. Andrea Briccarello The nose here is reminiscent of lovely Morello cherries mixed with chocolate cake. It is extremely elegant – a rich and…

My top three Andrea Briccarello • Guerrieri Rizzardi, Calcarole, Classico 2011 This single-vineyard Amarone has all the pedigree of a champion. Hand harvested from very old vines, it is made only in great vintages. Long and structured with spiced plums, balsamic and mocha. 92 Drink 2017-2022 • Alpha Zeta, A 2013 Created in 1999 by David Gleave MW of UK merchant Liberty Wines and flying winemaker Matt Thompson. Aged in a mixture of large botti and barriques, it has classic aromas and a muscular finish. Stunning and great value. 92 Drink 2018-2023 • I Campi, Campo Marna Cinquecento 2006 Made by rising star Flavio Prà at this family-run winery shows really the best of Veneto’s grape. The Cinquecento refers to the altitude of the vineyards at 500 metres. This is…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA Expert summary: Michael Garner Well-managed oak and volatile acidity as well as balanced alcohols helped to ensure a solid set of results that delivered a few surprises from established and new names ‘Most of the top scorers came from the classico area with a decent showing for riserva wines’ THIS WAS A good set of results where standards were well above average, with just a handful of wines that failed to generate much excitement. As expected, most of the top scorers came from the classico area with a decent showing for riserva wines. There is simply more experience and a longer tradition of Amarone production in classico, though Romano Dal Forno’s inclusion among the leading lights is, while predictable enough, a clear indication of the great potential…

The judges Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is wine buyer for the Galvin restaurant group in London and the winner of Best Wine List at the 2011 National Restaurant Awards. He was previously group sommelier and wine buyer for Corrigan’s Mayfair and Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and has also worked at Michelin-starred Umu. Michael Garner Garner is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 30 years. He works for specialist importer Tria Wines and taught for many years for the WSET. Garner co-wrote Barolo: Tar and Roses with Paul Merritt and his second book, on the wines of Verona, is due for publication in 2017. Susan Hulme MW Hulme is a wine writer, judge and educator who specialises in Italian wines. She became…

My top three Susan Hulme MW • Il Falchetto, Bricco Roche Paradiso, Superiore 2013 Bricco Roche is Il Falchetto’s flagship wine, only made in the best years from low-yielding old vines. Rich, super-ripe and sumptuous style with plenty of new oak, with the structure and concentration to last, yet the velvety tannins mean it is also approachable now. 96 Drink 2018-2023 • Ferraris, La Regina, Superiore 2013 La Regina is named for Luca Ferraris’ grandmother – ‘The Queen’. It’s from the Castlet vineyard, on tufa soil, where yields are low and the grapes are left to dry a little on the vine; the extra concentration balances the naturally very high acidity. 95 Drink 2017-2021 • Olim Bauda, La Villa 2015 This shows the charming qualities of Barbera. It is 100%…

25 UNDER £25 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director Christelle Guibert has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Gouguenheim, Malbec Bubbles Extra Brut, Mendoza, Argentina NV 89 £9.95 Tanners A delightful Malbec sparkler, full of strawberry and red cherry aromas. Crisp palate and juicy, bright fruit flavours, and a lovely persistence of tiny bubbles on the finish. The ideal complement to canapés and fresh salads, but also fantastic on its own. Alcohol 12% Celler Credo, Miranius, Penedès, Spain 2014 91 £14.49 Les Caves de Pyrene This is made by Recaredo, better known for making outstanding Cava. The Xarel-lo and Macabeo blend…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge This month’s experts Jane Anson will report on Bordeaux 2016 en primeur next month Anthony Rose is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Australia and regular contributor Christelle Guibert is Decanter’s tastings director Assessing en primeur samples Why do the same Bordeaux en primeur samples appear to taste different at different times to different people? Surely the wine is prepared at the same time, in the same way and should therefore taste the same? Ian Churchill, Leytonstone Jane Anson replies: The main reason is that a young wine drawn from barrel is less stable than it will be when bottled. (This is one of the reasons why wines in Bordeaux are given 18 months…

Wine Legends Mascarello, Monprivato, Barolo 1970 Piedmont, Italy A legend because… Single-vineyard or cru wines are a relatively new concept in Barolo, although growers must have known for decades which were the finest sites that consistently gave the best wines. Monprivato, the jewel among the holdings of Mauro Mascarello, was one of the early cru wines. First documented in 1566, the vineyard was hailed as one of Barolo’s top sites in Renato Ratti’s classification of 1985. It has also become celebrated because of Mascarello’s unwavering espousal of traditional rather than modernist winemaking: long maceration and a preference for large casks over barriques. Looking back The estate of Giuseppe Mascarello acquired vines in Monprivato in 1904, and came to own more than 90% of the cru. The vineyard name first appeared…

Letter of the month It’s not about the vintage JANE ANSON’S COLUMN in your March 2017 edition on the fallacy of focusing on the vintage was fabulous. I’ve lost count of the number of wallet-sized charts I’ve been sent over the years explaining what to drink and when. All of them have gone straight in the bin. If you could reduce the entire output of a whole region to a score out of five, I would never have become infatuated with wine in the first place. Wine isn’t about memorising good years and bad years. It’s a drink: grown from the earth, crafted by artisans, drunk with friends, explored for a lifetime. Paul Davis, Wimbledon…

Jane Anson ‘How much technical information to put in a tasting note? It’s tough’ I’VE BEEN THINKING a lot about wine notes recently. I’ve been researching for a book that has involved tasting through wines from a tonne of different grapes, regions and styles, and that is aimed very much at foodies rather than wine experts. All of the wines in the book are amazing – that is basically a prerequisite for getting there in the first place – so I want to get the balance right between giving information about what each bottle will taste like and simply getting people excited about drinking them. Put this together with the fact that this year I am tasting all the 2016 en primeur wines across Bordeaux’s Left and Right Banks, plus…

Liguria: wines to try Poggio dei Gorleri, Riviera Ligure di Ponente 2015 90 N/A UK www.poggiodeigorleri.com Herby nose, with a nuance of sour cream. Good body and depth on the palate with juicy lime and fresh green apple flavours, super intensity and bags of personality. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 13.5% Cantine Federici, La Baia del Sole, Sarticola, Colli di Luni 2015 89 N/A UK www.cantinefederici.com Nose of beeswax, peach and ripe melon. Palate of substance, with a rich texture; some ripe yellow fruit and a powerful savoury-mineral finish. A food wine from a hot vintage. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 14% Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Etichetta Nera, Colli di Luni 2015 89 £21-£25 Armit, Christopher Keiller, Hedonism, Tannico Subtle, dark flowers nose. Fresh, tangy palate with melon and white peach fruit, nice creaminess, lots…

Masseto – a timeline 1984 Major part of Masseto vineyard planted on advice of André Tchelistcheff 1987 First vintage of Masseto 1989 Tschelistcheff retires from his role as estate consultant 1991 Michel Rolland hired as estate consultant 1995 Lower sector of Masseto vineyard planted 2001 The wine wins a 100-point score from The Wine Spectator 2005 Axel Heinz joins as winemaker 2006 Masseto begins to be sold through the Place de Bordeaux 2012 Vineyard converted entirely to organic farming 2016 Work begins on new dedicated winery…

TUSCANY Carmignano: carving a niche This small, northerly corner of Tuscany has a long, noble history. But can its complex terroirs and the passion of its producers ever lift Carmignano’s DOCG wines above the clamour for Chianti? Stephen Brook visits the region ENRICO PIERAZZUOLI, ONE of the brothers who own the Le Farnete estate in Tuscany, is standing among his vines shortly before harvest. ‘I’m not sitting at a computer or staring at analyses before harvest,’ he tells me. ‘I’m here in the vineyard. I’m not against technology. You can use GPS and drones and soil probes, but then you have to make a decision, and this you can only do if you are in the vines every day. Knowing about one element is not enough. You need to taste…

Vintage report Southern Rhône 2015 Robust, long-lived reds with fine, firm tannins will offer wine lovers much to enjoy from this vintage, says John Livingstone-Learmonth, who recommends 30 of the best buys across the region Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Hedonism ( www.hedonism.co.uk ); Berry Bros & Rudd ( www.bbr.com ); Big Red Wine Co ( www.bigredwine.co.uk ) and Lay & Wheeler ( www.laywheeler.com ) for the loan of the bottles ‘It’s not far off being the perfect vintage. The wines can be drunk quite young but will also keep very well’ Guy Ricard, Domaine Le Couroulu, Vacqueyras QUALITY IS HANDSOME across the southern Rhône in 2015. It is a generally very good vintage, but not on par with greats such as 1990 and 2010. The freshness is…

NATURAL WINE It’s only natural: the 31 wines you need to try In a comprehensive and landmark tasting, DecanterÕ s expert panel blind tasted 122 natural wines from all corners of the globe. Here they name their top wine as well as 10 personal favourites, after Simon Woolf explains how we define this niche but exciting wine category ‘They are as diverse, irrepressible and idiosyncratic as the growers who produce them’ THE TIME FOR denial or protest is over – we can safely retire that old chestnut, ‘there’s no such thing as natural wine, it would just be vinegar’ as the facile pedantry it always was. Natural wine is here to stay as a small but significant niche; the agitator that keeps the wine world on its toes, the logical…

Simon Woolf’s top 10 picks from the tasting ‘The bottles which rose to the top all had something individual and exciting to say’ I wasn’t looking for any particular style or flavour profile in this tasting; there is no such a thing as a ‘template’ for natural wines. I was delighted at the overall high quality of winemaking evident, and the lack of obvious faults. While I’m a strong proponent of minimal intervention, organics and biodynamics, I’m no lover of excess brettanomyces (brett), volatile acidity or unintended oxidation. Only two of 122 wines tasted had a hint of mousiness, my bête noire (not to be confused with brett, although the two often cohabit). This tasting was hugely enjoyable for its range of styles, countries and winemaking techniques. That said, it…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of eight to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however, judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are…

The results With more than 65% of wines Recommended and above, this was a fine tasting that emphasised vintage variation and importance of producer name, says Amy Wislocki OUR TASTERS WERE cheeringly upbeat after tasting their way through 166 Amarones – by definition a high-alcohol and robust style. ‘There were some excellent wines here, and the tasting was surprisingly easy to enjoy, with well-tamed alcohol and good balance in most of the wines,’ said Andrea Briccarello. ‘The quality was there, and there was typicity.’ It was the classico and classico riserva wines that surprised Briccarello most: ‘These showed particularly well, benefiting from the better terroir, producer know-how and longer ageing that goes into these wines,’ he said. ‘When you open a bottle of classico, you can definitely tell the difference.’…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Bottega, Prêt à Porter, Classico Riserva 2011 93 AB 92 MG 94 SH 92 £65-£79.50 Catalyst Brands, Hard to Fine Wines, Le Bon Vin Immediately vanilla and creamy blackcurrant aromas spring forth from the glass. These are followed by intense plums and chocolate in a sensual mix with caramel, prunes and smoked almonds. Mouthwatering acidity brings it all together. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 16.5% Guerrieri Rizzardi, Calcarole, Classico 2011 93 AB 92 MG 92 SH 94 £58-£71 Dulwich Vintners, Harvey Nichols, Hay Wines, Hedonism A really delightful, textbook Amarone here. Oak and aniseed aromas contrast with rosehip syrup, rhubarb and violets. This intensity unfolds gracefully on the palate into balsamic cherries and jammy plums, supported by refined and textured tannins. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 16% Alpha Zeta, A 2013…

My top three Michael Garner • Tommasi, Ca’ Florian, Classico Riserva 2009 No surprise Tommasi has done so well here: Ca’ Florian (9,000 bottles a year) is a serious, traditionally styled wine made in lots. The 2009 is approaching full maturity and shows off the voluptuous character so typical of good Amarone. 95 Drink 2017-2020 • Ca’ La Bionda, Vigneti di Ravazzol, Classico 2011 From low-yielding 70-year-old vines in limestone soils, this fleshy and indulgent Amarone is starting to drink beautifully. The fruit has a lengthy drying period on traditional wooden racks. 93 Drink 2018-2021 • Romano Dal Forno 2011 This is always a singular wine, outstripping the competition for sheer muscle and power. Dal Forno’s wines aim for longevity above all and this is still years from full maturity.…

BARBERA D’ASTI Outstanding 95–97pts Il Falchetto, Bricco Roche Paradiso, Superiore 2013 Decanter average score: 97/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello 98 Michael Garner 97 Susan Hulme MW 96 £39 Slurp Giorgio Forno, one of three brothers who run Il Falchetto, is responsible for the vineyards and places huge importance on choosing the right site. He is fanatical about achieving fully ripe, healthy grapes and goes to a lot of trouble to ensure this, commissioning expensive external tests on the quantity and quality of the tannins before deciding when to pick; if this means the alcohol is 16% or more, so be it. It obviously pays off because the wines have a rich, sumptuous texture but also a lovely purity of expression too. The Bricco Roche vineyard (‘rocky summit’) is…

My top three Andrea Briccarello • Il Falchetto, Bricco Roche Paradiso, Superiore 2013 The Falchetto estate in Santo Stefano Belbo has been in the Forno family for more than four generations. Paradiso is only made in the best vintages and this has everything you could want from a top Barbera. Incredible! 98 Drink 18-23 • Cascina Gilli, Le More 2015 From the first sip I was instantly attracted to this bright and charming Barbera from the 17ha estate run by Gianni Vergnano. A vibrant young wine that will only get better with time. 93 Drink 2017-2020 Vietti, La Crena, Superiore Nizza 2013 Vietti is renowed for its Barolo but this single-vineyard La Crena has nothing to be shy about. Made from old vines planted in 1932, this one really stood…

BARBERA D’ASTI Expert summary: Susan Hulme MW With more than 34% of entries scoring 90 points or more, this successful tasting highlighted the coming of age of this versatile, affordable Piedmontese red ‘Barbera is a very high-acid variety, but what was once a hindrance in the 1980s has now become a virtue’ LOOKING AT THE results the first thing to notice is the quantity of high-scoring wines – more than a third of entries averaging 90 points or more. Yes, Barbera is a very high-acid variety, but what was once a hindrance in the 1980s has now become a virtue, with climate change producing, hotter, warmer and drier vintages. The Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG status, which mandates a minimum of 12.5% alcohol, was intended as a recognition of having achieved…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners, Kent (www.abvintners.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Aged in Oak Wine Co (www.agedinoak.co.uk) Ake & Humphris, Yorkshire (www.akeandhumphris.co.uk) Albany Vintners, Cambridge (www.albanyvintners.com) Alexander Hadleigh, Southampton (www.ahadleigh-wine.com) Alexander Wines, Glasgow (www.alexander-wines.co.uk) Alivini, London (020 8880 2526) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Amazon UK (www.amazon.co.uk) Amps Fine Wines, Northants (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Annessa Imports, London (020 8804 3900) Armit, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Bablake Wines, Coventry (www.bablakewines.co.uk) Bacchus Wine, Buckinghamshire (www.bacchus.co.uk) Bacco Wine, Edinburgh (www.bacco-wine.co.uk) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Bargain Booze, Cheshire (www.bargainbooze.co.uk) Berkmann Wine Cellars, London (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London (www.bbr.com) Bibendum PLB, London (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Big Red Wine Co, Suffolk (www.bigredwine.co.uk) Black Dog Wine Agency, Cheshire (www.blackdogwineagency.co.uk) Bodega Soul (www.bodegasoul.co.uk) Bon…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Poulsard One of three dark-skinned varieties found in the Jura, this one is home-grown and the most widely planted. In the sub-appellation of Arbois-Pupillin, self-styled capital of the variety in the north of Jura, it is known as Ploussard. French ampelographer Pierre Galet has suggested the name might have been chosen because of the colour of the berries, which resembles that of pelosses – wild plums or sloes. First mentioned in the 14th century under the name Polozard, it is both early to bud and early to ripen, vulnerable not only to spring frosts but also to coulure and sunburn. There is little more than 300ha planted but it is used to make varietal reds and rosés, blended reds and may also be used…