Innholdsfortegnelse for DA MAN Style Fall/Winter 2016 i Da Man

Fashion is in limbo at the moment. Following the shifts of several creative directors in a number of brands, some major labels are currently preparing to embrace the “see now, buy now” approach starting this season onwards. But with the fall runway shows already taking place early this year, we are privileged to savor what are perhaps the last fashion weeks orchestrated in orderly dates throughout the year. On a slightly related note, “digital” has been a mantra repeated over and over again as the inevitable force that has pushed us toward these current changes. Everything needs to go faster, have a global reach and stay constantly up-to-date. And it’s not only the fashion industry, as we, too, are spurred to keep up with this new pace. I’ve shot Dan…

GEEKY SLEEKY Simple, straightcut pieces can help you achieve a cool but effortless “smart geek” look. A pair of swanky glasses will certainly help as well. DOS Taperedpantswithavisibly high waist were all the rage back in the roaring ’70s, and they’re making a comeback today. Forstraight-cuttaperedpants subtlety is the name of the game. Keep the embellishments and emblematic touches at a bare minimum. Gettingthebestfitpossible is always important, but it’s doubly so with tapered pants. Most importantly, make sure it doesn’t get too narrow when it reaches your ankles DON'TS Whileloosesilhouettesareback in, baggy tapered trousers are not. You really don’t want to pull off the MC Hammer. Aswithjustaboutany kind of straight-cut trousers, bright colors are best avoided. Unless you actually want to go for a loud…

CHIC CHECK PULL OFF AN EFFORTLESS DAPPER LOOK BY PAIRING A CHECKED SUIT WITH A NEUTRAL-COLORED SHIRT, JUST LIKE HOW KOREAN SUPERSTAR SONG JOONG-KI DID IT ON THE RED CARPET OUT AND ABOUT FOR OUTDOOR INVITATIONS, WHITE IS PERHAPS THE SAFEST COLOR. MATT BOMER ROCKED THIS STYLE THE RIGHT WAY WITH A DARK-TONED SUIT JACKET TO ADD A LITTLE ZING TO THE SNAZZY ENSEMBLE UP THE SLEEVES PRINTED SHORT-SLEEVED SHIRTS SEND OUT RELAXED VIBES AND ALSO CASUAL ELEGANCE WHEN COMBINED WITH BLACK-TONED PIECES. CHRIS PINE TOPPED THAT OFF WITH A FINE SMOLDERING LOOK TREND SPOTTING MODEL EXTRAORDINAIRE JOHANNES HUEBL ALWAYS KNOWS HOW TO SPRUCE UP A LOOK WITH COLOR-MATCHING ACCESSORIES AND TRENDY LAYERING…

There was something about Prada’s runway show that’s very unsettling. Some of the looks had shirt collars that were turned up unkemptly, sleeves that were hanging and dragging, and clothes wrongly buttoned. The season’s highlighted shirts, made in collaboration with artist Christopher Chemin, were desirable but thematically dark despite the pretense of cheery colors—one reinterprets the catastrophic story of Noah’s Ark, and another depicts a chaotic fight between Sigmund Freud, Frida Kahlo, and a bunch of the most eccentric personalities who ever lived. Even more intimidating was the setting itself. To a layman, it’s a cold structure, with dramatic lighting and an odd, raised center stage. In Prada’s own words, it is an auto-da-fé, a ritual of public penance for condemned heretics. Backstage, designer Miuccia Prada mentioned “immigration, famine, assassination”…

Most people tend to assume that the accessories label founded by Christian Louboutin in 1991 and bearing his name took off because of its iconic red soles. In reality, that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Extravagant designs and rich colors that drape every piece produced are true testaments to the fervent passion—not to mention painstaking attention to detail—engendered by the French designer since a very young age. Shoes are, and will forever be, his biggest love affair in life. 2016 celebrates 25 years of his namesake house, which had already etched an indelible mark in shoemaking history. And this season’s sumptuous creations for men are no exception. From the finely embroidered Tudor flat shoes to the fireworksinspired Louis high-top sneakers, every piece has its own story to tell. In…

The way a person takes his time before responding to casual questions, how he formulates his ideas and how he weaves his train of thought can say a lot about his mannerisms and ability as a designer. There is a cautious approach—a censoring mind, if you will—that carefully scrutinizes each detail that is said or, in the case of fashion design, each little detail that is put into a potential masterpiece. And when Pablo Coppola, who sits as design director at Bally, professed that he’s still— or maybe will forever be—fascinated by fashion accessories, it all made sense The Argentinean director has been acknowledged by many as a strong agent of change, bringing the classic and, some might say, complacent Swiss brand back to a trend-conscious stance. The result is…

A Russian model who travels the globe is nothing new. Andrey Zakharov, however, is not your average globetrotting Russian model. Even considering the fact that pure genetics is often cited as the reason to get into modeling, this particular career path didn’t just land on Zakharov’s lap despite his looks. He pursued this line of work out of curiosity and then with tenacity after a stranger, instead of scouting him, merely planted the idea in his head. Even so, a year later he found himself strutting on the runways of Paris and Milan. His expressive personality is as alluring as his captivating gaze. Zakharov’s mind, like his erratic traveling schedule, ever so constantly jumps from one thing to another; he excitedly gushes about energy, nature and spirituality, some of perhaps…

PATCH PERFECT IT’S KIND OF TRICKY TO CREATE A LOOK THAT’S BOTH WITTY AND MODERN YET SUBTLE AND STYLISH TO BOOT. ADDING A PATCH OR TWO (OR MORE) IS ONE EASY WAY TO FRESHEN UP AN OTHERWISE PLAIN GETUP FOOTLOOSE SLIM-FIT PANTS HAVE LONG BEEN CONSIGNED TO THE HISTORY OF PAST SEASONS. THIS FALL, LOOSER FITS HAVE COME BACK TO THE FOREFRONT, REINTRODUCING MORE FAMILIAR SILHOUETTES INCLUDING THE COMFY BAGGY TROUSERS SEE ME ROAR THERE’S BEEN A COROLLARY UPTICK IN THE AMOUNT OF FLORA AND FAUNA EMBLAZONED ON HIGHLIGHTED TOPS THESE DAYS. WILDCATS, IN PARTICULAR, ARE THE KINGS OF THIS TREND JUNGLE, EITHER LUX-EMBROIDERED OR SIMPLY PRINTED ON THE FABRIC PAINT THE TOWN RED WHILE THE MAIN PALETTE OF FALL/WINTER TENDS TO LEAN TOWARD SOMBER MONOCHROMES OR EARTHY TONES, THIS…

DOS Ifyoure going to wear pajamas outside the bedroom, it’s best to stick to silk, satin or other high-end fabrics. Aspajamasarestillbe a bit risky as far as everyday attire goes, having a tailored top with a perfect fit goes a long way to making sure you look classy and refined in it. Pairedwithdressyshoes for instance, elevates the pajamas into something you can wear with confidence on an evening out with friends DON'TS Theclassicstripedpajamaset is not recommended for daily wear. Basically, you want fashionable pajamas. So go for bold prints. Ontheflipside pajamas with superhero logos, cartoon characters and the like should never leave the bedroom. Despitetheobviouscomfortfactor of loose ones, when you want to incorporate pajamas into an everyday look, make sure it fits you perfectly.…

Glancing at all of the world’s foremost fashion capitals, sometimes you can’t help but picture London as the sanest of them all. Paris has “artsy” written all over it, as does Milan. New York, being The City That Never Sleeps and all that, is bursting at the seams with unbridled creativity spurred by its cultural (and financial) riches. But London, well, London has always existed in the collective consciousness of humanity as that great city of gray skies and gray suits; of grim weather and an even grimmer sensibility permeating everything from its politics to the way a gentleman dresses in public. Time and again, however, the London Collections: Men events (aka Men’s Fashion Week London) have shown that, while the average (or perhaps the stereotypical) Londoner might be a…

Every designer has his or her own distinct signature. Tommy Hilfiger, who first established his eponymous brand around 31 years ago, is a pioneer in bringing preppy styling to menswear. His youthful designs, reminiscent of what’s typically worn by Ivy League students—particularly those who are studious yet relaxed—are wearable, cool and effortless. There’s always a nod to pop culture as well, which makes the brand ever-relevant to the younger generations of each decade. On a global scale, Tommy Hilfiger has basically planted the seeds of what can only be described as a new American style. While the term “Americana” is often associated with the archetypical ancient Western cowboy look, the brand’s East Coast Americana is a refined, modern look that finds resonance in fashion-conscious youth around the world. In fact,…

Compared to many other global fashion houses—including other Italian establishments—Antony Morato is still a budding brand, having started its journey as the dream of three brothers a mere nine years ago. Yet, as early as 2012, it has expanded into at least 50 countries. And since last year, the brand already landed on Indonesian shores. At the helm of this flourishing business sits Lello Caldarelli, president and creative director, who—along with his brothers Tania and Giovanni—has made quite a name for himself with a design direction that is both contemporary and distinctive, both Italian and global. It surely doesn’t hurt that Antony Morato’s marketing efforts have always been on point, either by featuring top-billed models (including, for instance, Tobias Sørensen whom we’ve featured in a previous issue of DA MAN…

With menswear now enjoying an ongoing rise in the fashion industry, the male modeling trade is slowly but surely revealing its longdormant power. Oliver Cheshire is among a select few who have been able to churn out a sharp increase in sales for brands whose campaign he fronts. What sets this Londoner further apart from his peers is his dedication to fashion, which extends beyond the sphere of modeling. The 28-year-old is often spotted in handsome sartorial ensembles on a dayto-day basis, blogs about men’s style and now has a hand in fashion designing. The fact that he’s been modeling for more than a decade only adds weight to whatever he says and, well, wears. Surely, he’s not afraid to show it. “SINCE I WAS YOUNG I ALWAYS HAVE HAD…

CASUALLY CLASSIC After a long day, tone down your formal outfit with a bomber jacket, and you’ll be ready to party the night away. ATHLEISURE ATTIRE Bomber jackets work surprisingly well with the dynamics of sporty looks. WEEKENDER’S STAPLE Pair your jacket with a checkered shirt, add a pair of khaki shorts, and you’ll get an instant stylish but laidback look. DOS Makesurethatyouget a bomber jacket in the correct size. The simplest way to measure this kind of outerwear is by the shoulder. Patchesonbomberjacketsare in. You can add those yourself, or why not get the MA1-style bomber jacket with a trademark zipper on the arm? Forthoselookingfora more classic variation with a subtle finish, suede bomber jackets come highly recommended. BOMBER JACKET Derived from the flight jackets used…

 1 WHAT IS A BUCKET BAG? A bucket bag is so named because it is designed to have a round or oval bottom with an open top. This top is commonly equipped with a drawstring closure and—less commonly—a magnetic clasp on the inside for extra security. Finally, while some bucket bags are designed to be carried like shoulder purses or backpacks, the bucket bag usually comes with a long cross-body strap that’s perfect for a casual and hands-free look. 2 WHICH TYPES OF SOCKS SHOULD I PREPARE FOR WHEN TRAVELING TO A SUB-TROPICAL DESTINATION DURING WINTER? There are a lot of factors that you might want to look into when picking a new pair of socks, from thickness to specialized versions for hiking and so on. These, however, tend to…

Back then, the menswear industry thrived on men who ordered suits. Today, a significant part of the business is comprised of ready-to-wear clothes and dashing accessories. Despite the fact that tailoring—sometimes in playful, innovative forms—still define a large chunk of what designers have to offer, identity and attitude of the men actually wearing the clothes pretty much determine where menswear is going. At the moment, it is going forward at a steady rate as more brands depend on its menswear departments following slower profit growth in womenswear. The exciting vibes of menswear were strongly felt back during the last week of January, when Paris Men’s Fashion Week was held. When the womenswear industry was shaken with a rush of resignations, the menswear field felt relatively calmer. Yes, Italo Zucchelli, Massimiliano…

Being a dark horse, an outsider or a newcomer always has its advantages. Just look at how the newly official New York Fashion Week: Men’s has been progressing so far. Now entering its second official season, the premiere fashion event for men of the Big Apple has gradually strayed away from cookie-cutter approaches as deisgners imbue their designs with bolder, more distinctive signatures. The fall/winter installment in particular raised an interesting and principal, question: How should one start a collection? Some brands generally begin with an inspiration board; but the designers of New York apparently took a slightly different road. A few drew on ideas close to their personal experiences; another conceptualized a collection based on their concern for the development of the menswear industry. Thus, New York, once identical…

Where does one begin when introducing Nicola Formichetti? He is an artist, stylist, creator, musician, social media celebrity and much, much more. He is a constant force that stays hungry and edgy—in fashion and music, on Instagram and Snapchat, in Tokyo, Milan, New York, etc. More importantly, he remains unpredictably sharp in his every move. Perhaps, it’s his upbringing that engenders such a rich personality and diverse talents. Born in Tokyo to a Japanese stewardess and an Italian pilot, Formichetti grew up in Rome and spent time living in London and New York. He is the epitome of a world citizen, one whose childhood and adolescent years are colored by diverse cultures and languages. While studying architecture in the capital of the U.K., he dove right into the club scene…

The phrase “never judge a book by its cover” can sound outdated these days what with the ubiquitousness of tell-all Instagram accounts. As you browse through Dan Murphy’s (@danmurphymodel), however briefly, you’ll definitely get an inkling of what an extraordinary life he’s led—and one that’s often spent with a champagne bottle on hand. But up close and personal, this 30-year-old turns out to be the real deal. Despite his physical perfection, Murphy never seems to boast about all the achievements he has under the belt. His decade-long of modeling career is marked with great moments, from shooting with Bruce Weber and posing alongside Kate Moss to working with major fashion houses—Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Massimo Dutti and Barbour to name some. Off-camera, he is a certified pilot who can fly…

Fueled by his passion for travel, a 20-yearold Andrés Ve l e n coso Segura took up modeling in earnest. He left his hometown in Tossa de Mar, Girona, Spain, for Milan, Paris and, subsequently, New York. The last destination proved to be an enduring and fruitful affair where he scored great success, landing pages and pages of editorials, and fronting multiple campaigns season after season. Two of his big breakthroughs included being the first male model ever to be featured in Vogue Paris and being the face of Chanel Allure Homme fragrance for seven straight years—an incredibly rare occurrence in the fast-paced business of cosmetics. If anything, the now 38-yearold Catalonian never rests on his laurels. Five years ago, he dove headlong onto the big screen, taking on…

Never before have we experienced random images thrown at our face 24/7 like today, what with the ubiquity of Instagram and other social media platforms. While things like smartwatches are creeping into our wardrobes, it wouldn’t be long before we’re covered head to toe in wearable tech. But, look at our clothes today. Yeezy’s tattered sweaters, Hedi Slimane’s persistent skinny rocker looks and Prada’s chaos-inspired runway—what’s going on here? As with anything in fashion, what goes around comes around, and we’re experiencing a comeback of the ’90s: Hello thick shoe soles, plaid flannel shirts and ripped jeans! We can easily point a finger at the culprit: The Millennial. Their impact on fashion (and fashion designers) is undeniable. They are the netizens who dominate the online world. The Millennial’s ultimate…