Since leaving Manali, in the Himachal Pradesh region of India, it seemed like our Royal Enfields’ cheap tires hadn’t felt the familiar caress of tarmac for more than a few minutes. The reality was different: We’d logged plenty of regular road miles, but the off-pavement sections were so intense everything else was forgotten. “We” were 16 riders and one fearless pillion, three riding guides, and two back-up trucks.
The trip, run by the local-owned tour company Helmet Stories, promised high mountain passes and “ball-breaking” roads carved out of the valley cliff faces, following rivers that were sometimes white rapids, other times opal green and still as a tepid tortoise. Over this constantly varying surface of rock, mud, dusty gravel, gravelly dust, huge boulders, and sharp, shoebox-sized blocks, I was being…
