Innholdsfortegnelse for Issue 2 2025 i CROWN

After attending watch fairs for more than a decade, I expected to feel some degree of indifference from the repetition – or so I thought. As it turns out, what excites us year after year isn’t just the novelties but the people: the cherished members of our watch community across the continents, many of whom we’ve known for years but only see during rare, large-scale gatherings like Watches and Wonders – and SIHH and BaselWorld in the past. For me, these familiar faces also make the trip worthwhile. Many of us rant about our tight schedules and the severe lack of sleep while covering the fairs, but somehow, a large portion of that fatigue is offset by momentary yet heartfelt exchanges – “You alright?”, “Oh my God, I’m late!” –…

Arguably one of Blancpain’s most famous creations, the Fifty Fathoms has defined the modern diving watch since its 1953 debut. The brand has since become a trusted name among divers and, for over two decades, a committed supporter of global ocean exploration and conservation. Blancpain works closely with marine researchers, biologists, conservationists, and photographers, offering long-term backing for their vital work. In 2020, the brand partnered with the Sulubaaï Environmental Foundation, a non-profit based in the Philippines’ Palawan archipelago, to support its Sea Academy programme, focused on conserving and restoring local marine habitats. From Reef to Reach Despite its designation as a UNESCO biosphere reserve, Palawan’s marine ecosystems remain fragile and largely unexplored, hampered by scarce infrastructure, communication barriers, and logistical hurdles for researchers and local stakeholders alike. To help…

From the humble beginnings of silent film to today’s blockbusters, cinema has captured our imagination in ways no other art form can. It is a medium that records time – both metaphorically and literally. Precision, endurance, and storytelling lie at the core of Rolex – and its connection to cinema reflects these very ideals. With a long-standing commitment to filmmaking, the brand continues to champion creativity, education, and heritage through its Perpetual Arts Initiative. Behind the Scenes At the heart of Rolex’s engagement with the film industry is its official partnership with the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (AMPAS), a cornerstone of global cinema. Since 2017, Rolex has served as the Exclusive Watch of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, the Proud Sponsor of the Oscars®,…

The Maison’s “One of Not Many” motto underscores its mastery of rare crafts and Genevan heritage – most notably, its use of platinum since the late 18th century. Marking its 270th anniversary, the brand unveils a 127-piece Traditionnelle ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ (CEP) Reference 6300T/000P-H056 featuring the new Calibre 2162 QP/270 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, a slim self-winding movement based on 2018’s Calibre 2160, with a 72-hour power reserve. The white gold dial features three white counters with blue indications – day, month, and date from left to right – matching the blued white gold Dauphine hands. A leap year window sits at 1 o’clock, while the tourbillon dominates the dial, its Maltese cross cage incorporating a blued screw as a running seconds indicator. A specially developed linocut-style motif, engraved by hand…

Colour has become a significant point of differentiation in watchmaking over the last decade, impacting all categories of the market, from easily accessible brands to the biggest luxury maisons. This year, the upper, middle, and lower segments of independent watchmaking all seem to be moving in a similar direction, nearly tangentially aligned with trends in the fashion industry. Nomos Glashütte’s designer Thomas Friedman suggests a reason: Their audience skews towards trendier collectors who are likely to be visually drawn to a watch’s colour. It is a starting point to draw in their interest and then share the technical aspects of the watch. The marketing tactic is effective for a relatively small brand like Nomos. And we are sure there are collectors just like ourselves who are immediately drawn to the…

As luxury watchmaking grows increasingly uniform, a quiet shift is underway. Collectors are turning to independent watchmakers for more personal, thoughtful creations. A 2023 McKinsey report found over 60 per cent of Gen Z and millennials favour brands with authenticity, purpose, and transparency. In watchmaking, Cyrus, Berneron, and Krayon reflect this shift – through bold innovation, radical intimacy, and poetic complication – each offering a distinct, emotionally resonant vision for a new generation of collectors. Cyrus Founded in 2010 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Cyrus was created to challenge traditional watchmaking norms. Named after Cyrus the Great, backed by movement developer Chronode, and guided by renowned movement designer Jean-François Mojon, Cyrus gained early recognition for its technical daring and distinctive double crown system. It has since evolved into a respected independent…

One of the standout trends at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 is the rise of muted pastel dials. While pastel tones aren’t new to watchmaking, this year, they’ve taken on a more sophisticated role with softer shades and matte finishes that feel modern, elegant, and quietly expressive. These hues look just as compelling on a masculine wrist as they do on a feminine one, a true testament to their versatility. The pastels on show span a broad range, from lavender and pistachio green to mineral blue and sunwashed yellow. Each brand has brought its own twist, with dial textures and finishing techniques adding depth and character. Whether paired with minimalist markers or vintage-style numerals, these dials prove that subtlety can still make a statement. ROLEX Rolex introduced three pastel-coloured Oyster…

A midst many uncertainties over the past year – including the sudden announcement of impending US tariffs – there was an undeniable undercurrent of concern throughout Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 (WWG). Yet that didn’t stop the fair from expanding into its most ambitious edition and drawing its largest audience to date, nor did it diminish the buzz and excitement that industry professionals and global media eagerly anticipate each year. Held from 1 to 7 April at Geneva’s Palexpo, WWG 2025 welcomed a record 60 exhibiting brands, including seven first-time participants: Bvlgari from LVMH Group, in addition to independents, such as Christiaan van der Klaauw, MeisterSinger, Kross Studio, Genus, Armin Strom, and HYT. According to official figures, over 55,000 visitors attended – an increase of 12 per cent from 2024…

In the late 20th century, quartz and quartz-related timekeeping were hardly visible in the industry, except in high jewellery watches or accessible watchmaking. The middle ground viewed it as a pariah, with the memory of the 1970s crises still fresh. Today, that’s not the case. There are watchmakers developing quartz movements to the accuracy of seconds per year, far beyond what the COSC sets for chronometer standards. And this year, that elite quartz timekeeping category has a new hybrid champion. Grand Seiko is the only watch brand to develop a true hybrid movement, combining a quartz-controlled regulator with a mechanically powered potential energy source. That’s in the form of the mainspring, which releases energy steadily that’s converted to nanowatts of power, enough for the oscillator and electromagnetic motor. The variations…

One of the highlights Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA) unveiled was the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux – a series of four animated timepieces, each depicting a different time of day: dawn (Aube), midday (Matinée), dusk (Soirée), and midnight (Clair de Lune). The dials for each model have been brought to life using the grisaille enamel technique, resulting in subtle, watercolour-like hues. Since debuting in 2010, the ‘lovers on a bridge’ have become icons of the Maison’s Poetic Complications. The 2025 iterations add to the romantic charm of Paris, with the couple sharing a three-minute kiss at noon and midnight. A brief 12-second peck can also be activated on demand via the 8 o’clock pusher. The entire animation is driven by the double-retrograde movement within, which also drives the hour…

Known for its bold and forward-thinking approach to watchmaking, Franck Muller continues to impress at WPHH this year with a captivating lineup, particularly highlighting the Vanguard series. As one of the few independent watchmakers to maintain an in-house team of stone-cutters and gemsetters, one of Franck Muller’s highlights this year is the Vanguard Curvex Cut Flower – a poetic fusion of high jewellery and haute horlogerie featuring the Curvex Cut diamond. Patented by the Maison, this proprietary cut features 73 precisely executed facets – 37 on the crown and 36 on the pavilion – that mirror the contours of the iconic Curvex case, maximising the stone’s brilliance. Housed in a curved 32 by 42.3mm case of rose or white gold, the Vanguard Curvex Cut Flower is presented with an open-worked…

Few names in watchmaking embody legacy and innovation like Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and pare-chute shock protection, who also pioneered brand identity in haute horlogerie. As the Maison marks its 250th anniversary, it celebrates with a series of launches that honour its storied past through a modern lens, including the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. Born in 2005 as a tribute to two late-18th-century Breguet icons – the Souscription and Tact pocket watches – Tradition models invert the movement, showcasing bridges, gears, and barrels on the dial side. What sets the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 apart is its fusion of historic design and signature elements: deep Breguet blue and the warm-toned Breguet gold, a proprietary new alloy blending copper, silver, and palladium to achieve a warm, antique-inspired yellow tone.…

This year marks two important anniversaries for Rolex. It’s the Swiss manufacture’s 120th anniversary and the 80th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust. The company has always approached such dates with a rather stoic attitude while quietly ushering in new changes. Among all of its announcements, the most significant was the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection. The Land-Dweller also brings with it a wide range of innovations and debuts, and it is also the only collection currently in production with an integrated bracelet. Statement Makers The watch completes Rolex’s conquering of domains that began with the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, followed by its most complex movement in the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller. In terms of hierarchy in the Classic collection, it ranks just under the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date. In the…

Tudor has long embraced a bold, go-getter spirit – one that balances fearless innovation with the assurance of experience. With the Black Bay, the brand revisits its roots, reinforcing the toolwatch identity that has defined the collection. The highlight this year is undoubtedly the Pelagos Ultra, boasting the highest water resistance in Tudor’s current lineup. However, the all-time record still belongs to the Hydro 1200, introduced back in 2009. Pelagos Ultra While the Hydro 1200 was a rugged beast, Tudor’s new Pelagos Ultra opts for refined strength. Its 43mm brushed titanium case and bracelet are built for serious depths – rated to 1,000m – and feature an easy-adjust buckle for diving suits. Inside beats the METAS-certified Calibre MT5612-U. A helium escape valve ensures safe decompression during saturation diving, protecting the…

A. Lange & Söhne When we first saw the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, we swooned. The enamel dial in a jet black, glossy finish and blackand-silver modernist design was superb. And despite the German watchmaker’s insistence on housing most of its minute repeaters in platinum cases, the quality of its chime is pretty good. One can only imagine how much better it would sound if Anthony De Haas, Product Development Director, would consider a lighter, harder material. However, a grand complication (nearly) is more than just the sound of its minute repeater. When we absorb the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual in its entirety, there is much more to immerse oneself in. The hammers, visible through the exhibition caseback, are black polished, going from…

Excitement mounts as a new chapter begins A brand that has followed its own path from the very beginning, Hautlence has never approached watchmaking from a conventional perspective, consistently presenting bold “what ifs” to the world of horology. The newly launched Helix Series 1 is a radical reimagining of mechanical timekeeping. Housed in an angular titanium case with a domed sapphire crystal, it features a visually and technically striking central cylindrical tourbillon resembling a spiralling DNA strand. Flanked by twin retrograde hour and minute displays, the kinetic sculpture-like movement is powered by the in-house D51 calibre – an automatic, 235-component engine with a micro-rotor, 65-hour power reserve, and 3Hz frequency. With founder and former CEO Guillaume Tetu recently returning as Chairman and Advisor, and the appointment of Cédric Joos as…