Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2017 i CROWN

Horological stalwart Breguet bucks the trend for retail conservatism with the opening of its Singapore flagship at Marina Bay Sands. Strategically located near the casino entrance at the mall’s basement, the new boutique spans 1,442 sqm – upsized from its previous location at the same mall. While customers will no doubt be spoilt for choice by Breguet’s most up-to-date creations at the store, they will also get to experience a slice of the brand’s horological heritage up close. Nestled among the vitrines housing exquisite timepieces is a vintage guilloche machine from 1905 – a huge, manually operated engraving machine that belies the intricate dial decorations it is capable of churning out with the help of skilled artisans. Awash in beige and grey with wood fittings, the boutique emanates luxury and…

“Aye!” Melissa Kong If you think the watch industry doesn’t have celeb CEOs or (gasp) doesn’t need them, you’re not looking hard enough. Let’s dismount that high horse for a bit and stare the issue in the eye. At the core of it, the watch industry is a business. And BUSINESSES NEED GENIUSES to thrive. Cases in point: Steve Jobs and Apple, Richard Branson and Virgin, Elon Musk and Tesla. These men have all contributed to elevating their brands and making them immensely successful. IT’S ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT FOR FLEDGLING OR LETHARGIC BRANDS. Look at what Jean-Claude Biver did for Hublot. And, thanks to his success there (amongst other brands), observers were excited about what he would do for TAG Heuer, and later Zenith. Marques that were, quite frankly, experiencing a…

Audemars Piguet’s frosted gold treatment on the new Royal Oak for women is smoother to the touch than it appears, and more sparkly than you can imagine. This is the result of a special surface treatment based on the Florentine technique (an ancient way of hammering gold), where metal is beaten with a diamond-tipped tool so that tiny indentations are made on the surface, resulting in a sparkle like diamond dust. The woman behind it is Carolina Bucci, herself a Florentine who mastered the technique in her jewellery workshops over decades. Because of the watch’s clean lines and gradating bracelet construction, it took months of trial and error to successfully apply the technique.…

One of Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern’s fondest memory of growing up in the company places him in his father’s office in Rue de Rhonde in the 1970s, playing among old furniture and snooping around drawers until he chanced upon a “secret one” containing the elder Stern’s most precious pocket watches. He recalled that it held six enamel pocket watches, wrapped in red velour that he could still smell. “I could only look, but wasn’t allowed to touch them,” he said. “But it was love at first sight.” There’s just something about old watches that have passed through many hands, which evokes not just memories, but inspires dreams about the future. Surely, a precious timepiece that came before, which demands care and protection, ought to elicit the same feelings from…

Even at almost half a million Euros, the A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ isn’t the most expensive or complicated watch from the Saxon brand. That title goes to the Grand Complication watch, which debuted in 2013 with a €1.9 million price tag, brandishing a perpetual calendar with moonphase, a split-seconds chronograph with flying seconds, and a grande and petite sonnerie with minute repeater. But enough with the old. (Or comparisons, for that matter). Any watch collector who knows Lange intimately is cognizant of two things: firstly, the brand is unrelenting in upholding its ‘Never Stand Still’ motto; steadfast in the belief that a marque is only as good as its last watch. Secondly, Lange is not into what its technical director Anthony de Haas calls “the…

Love all things Japanese? You’re not the only one. Demand for products from the East Asian nation has always been high (remember the queues for buttery cheese tarts and anything Hello Kitty?). And it doesn’t stop at kawaii trinkets and the latest food craze either. Japanese cars and watches also have their share of fans and there are good reasons for the enthusiasm—the country’s reputation for innovation, creativity and exacting workmanship being some of them. When it comes to timepieces, the Swiss may have a longer (and some argue, richer) history. But one can’t discount the strides the Japanese have made in the industry. The Japan Clock & Watch Association attributes the birth of the country’s horological industry to Christian missionaries who arrived in the mid-16th century and later taught…

The world of horology is full of icons and devotees. There’s a dedicated collector’s club for just about every make and model you can think of. Forums are filled with debates of the ideal hand shape and tireless, impassioned zealots posting their best lume shots. So how do you know when an ‘icon’ has truly reached an unassailable status? When the force of the watch’s fandom prompts the watchmaker to create a special edition in honour of a hashtag. That’s where the Omega Speedmaster is at right now. When Fratello Watches founder Robert-Jan Broer created the #SpeedyTuesday hashtag in 2012, fellow Speedmaster lovers were quick to adopt it, dedicating every Tuesday to posts of their beloved chronograph. The popular watch blog has even organised collector gatherings, sometimes with the help…

The adage ‘no man is an island’ certainly also rings true for the watch business. Why shouldn’t it? In today’s consumer space, it is not only common for brands to collaborate to launch co-branded products, joint efforts go a long way to help raise awareness and profiles of both companies, cast the net wider for otherwise untapped markets. Sponsorships of sporting events is a common go-to for watch companies. But beyond the razzmatazz of high-profile competitions and superstar athletes, collaboration between complementary watch and sports brands can reap benefits beyond advertising eyeballs and cross-pollinated sales. A prime example is the partnership between Richard Mille and McLaren F1. Both brands embody speed and excitement, as well as share a passion for cutting-edge design and technology in precision engineering. Since its debut…

The luxury industry gets unfairly judged sometimes. Naysayers will argue it’s a business that’s disengaged from reality, especially in times of economic uncertainty. But take a step back and you’ll realise it actually has the power to do a lot of good. Who better than the resource-rich, well-networked industry to highlight concerns and generate public discourse and interest in causes that matter? And when it comes to raising funds, they certainly have the ability to pull in the dollars from those who can afford to give generously. The luxury watchmaking community is certainly no stranger to charity. Names like Blancpain and Hublot have, through the sale of special edition timepieces, contributed to causes that range from ocean conservation to helping disadvantaged youth. Here, we explore four other offerings from watchmakers…

CORUM Golden Bridge Round Even though its technical sophistication meant that it had long been the preserve of geeky male watch lovers, Corum’s unmistakable baguette movement always seemed destined for female wrists. This pair of gem-studded Golden Bridge Round models in 39mm white gold cases shows just how resplendent – and comfortable – the iconic movement looks in ladies’ watches. BREGUET Tradition Dame The signature open-faced watch from Breguet, endowed with hard-performing specs that include silicon escapement components and 50-hour power reserve, gets the soft treatment. Decidedly feminine upgrades such as an engine-turned mother-of-pearl dial and 36mm rose gold case set with diamonds on the bezel show how exuberant the bare-all aesthetic can look. A. LANGE & SÖHNE Little Lange 1 Moon Phase Like the men’s version of the Lange…

In the early 1960s, two engineers Hans Werner Aufrecht and Erhard Melcher, met while working on the 300 SE racing engines in the Daimler-Benz Development department. Their passion for motor racing and performance was clear from day one but sadly, the company decided not long after to close the facility. Undeterred, both men started their own engine tuning company called AMG in 1967, the moniker an acronym of their last names, Aufrecht, Melcher and GroBaspach, Aufrecht’s hometown. AMG’s work in tuning Mercedes-Benz road cars to the standard of the racing cars gained them fame in the 1970s. Mercedes-Benz was so impressed with AMG’s work that the car maker decided to buy into the company, leading to the birth of Mercedes-AMG GmbH in 1999. Since then, a Mercedes-AMG ride has been…

7 July 2017, Adrift, Marina Bay Sands About 30 Jaquet Droz enthusiasts were treated to an evening of art appreciation with a twist. Famed for its intricately handcrafted decorative dials that feature a variety of techniques spanning grand feu enamel to miniature painting, the Swiss brand held a mini-master class for a few lucky aficionados, conducted by its in-house artisan. Guests were first enticed by the exquisite Jaquet Droz creations on display, all of which featured hand-decorated dials to reinforce the event’s theme. After getting suitably awed, and gaining insights into how the timepieces were made, thanks to a ‘live’ demonstration by Jaquet Droz’s long-serving dial artisan who flew in specially for the event, everyone then tried their hands at painting their own dials. Clearly, standards varied and there was…

There are not many like Jean-Claude Biver left in the watch business. Wise, passionate, bold, rebellious, with warrior blood coursing through his veins and a heart brimming with youthful affection for his work, Biver is a giant among legends; his patina of awe acquired from decades of experience that earned him the reputation of being a turnaround king. Copies of Biver’s semi-autobiography, L’homme qui a sauvé la montre mécanique (‘The Man Who Saved Mechanical Watchmaking’), line a desk inside TAG Heuer’s cavernous and pop-art-furnished interview room at Baselworld 2017. When quizzed about the title of the book, Biver waves his hand coyly, as if embarrassed by the title. “But it is a correct description, no?” We ask. “Oh yes, of course,” he says, “that is true.” A horological Coach Carter,…

Let’s spend a moment to really take stock of how far Montblanc has come in its watchmaking journey. It is easy to dismiss the marque’s meteoric rise in the eyes of watch collectors as something that is destined to happen. After all, the company boasts a 111-year-old history in making luxury writing instruments. Although pens are not exactly the same thing as watches, Montblanc can, after all, lean on fundamentals such as quality craftsmanship, construction and innovation when it comes to creating timepieces. Despite initial scepticism of its first watch collection launched only in 1998 – with a watch scribe famously asking then-CEO Norbert Platt if they were going to “put ink in the watches” – Montblanc’s expansion into horology, transformed into a full-fledged luxury maison naturally, and almost effortlessly,…

Innovation is the lifeblood of the Breitling watch company. Since its inception in 1884, founder Léon Breitling had been devoted to the production of chronographs and other timing instruments, eventually specialising in these (then) cutting edge devices. The company’s deep-seated involvement with timekeepers, specifically the chronograph, stems from this dedication to all forms of precision timekeeping. It may not have invented the complication but Breitling was the company that evolved it into this user-friendly style familiar to all watch connoisseurs today. It began by introducing the world’s first chronograph wristwatch with a central chronograph seconds hand and a 30-minute counter. Then eight years later in 1923, it successfully produced the world’s first chronograph with an independent push-piece at two o’clock. Finally, in 1934, Breitling revolutionised the chronograph with a model…

Since Urwerk was founded by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei 20 years ago in 1997 (a third founder, Felix’s brother Thomas, left the company in 2004), the company has been on the cutting edge of innovation, producing watches that are impossible to mistake for anything but an Urwerk. Every self-respecting watchmaker touts the unity of innovation and tradition in their creations; Urwerk is no different in this regard, but the brand stands out by following this mantra to an extreme, marching to its own beat in a different part of town. The bulk of its watches do not look anything like a watch in the conventional sense. They are missing hands that go round and round, and their cases are shaped remotely from the circle, square, tonneau or cushion that…

What makes you invest in a luxury mechanical timepiece over a regular quartz ticker? More often than not, it’s the story behind the brand that wins it a following because fans want to buy into that narrative. It’s a gospel that new watch brand Avantist has fully embraced. Born out of a collaboration between Bruneian entrepreneur Keeran Janin and third-party Swiss watch design houses, Avantist wants to pay tribute to inspiring men and women from various disciplines, including sports, entertainment and politics – a theme that’s evident in their debut limited edition Legend Series collection. The first timepiece from the collection is the Avantist Martina Navratilova Wimbledon 1987; a mouthful to say but it describes the watch perfectly. Designed in partnership with the watch’s namesake, the timepiece features a piece…

French luxury house Hermès may be better known for its covetable leather creations like the Birkin and Kelly, but its timepieces are just as meticulously crafted by trained watchmakers and artisans with an astute eye for detail. Since it started producing its own watches in the late 1970s, Hermès has gained a fan base for iconic creations like the Cape Cod, Arceau and Heure H collections. Come October, a travelling exhibition of the brand’s latest offerings will be on display in Singapore, the fourth stop after Basel, Japan and the USA. To herald the showcase, London-based juggling company, Gandini Juggling, will present a spectacular show on 26 October where quirky characters will mingle with guests while juggling handfuls of apples in a complex choreography that is both light-hearted and exciting.…

7 to 13 August, Paragon Atrium Together with the Swiss Embassy and SwissCham, Cortina Watch presented Timepiece Exhibition week, which showcased the signature collections of four Swiss brands—Corum, Hautlence, Zenith and Chopard. Corum featured its iconic Golden Bridge collection with 2017’s new rectangular case, while Hautlence displayed its Vortex collection with 19 primary colour crystals in its 3-D case of faceted structures. Zenith exhibited its El Primero range with a high-frequency skeletonised mechanism as Chopard showcased its perennial favourites—Happy Sport and Happy Ocean. To launch the exhibition, Cortina hosted a cocktail reception where guests and media were invited to view the watches. Switzerland’s ambassador to Singapore, Thomas Kupfer, and Tom Ludescher, chairman of SwissCham Singapore, were on hand to grace the occasion as they shared their reflections on the ties…

It really doesn’t matter which side you’re on – whether you are a purist who believes in the sanctity of the mechanical domain, or a progressive who understands that change is the only constant – smartwatches, or rather Swiss-made luxury smart watches, are now a thing. The initial rumblings of a digital revolution seem like a lifetime ago, back at the Baselworld 2015 watch fair, when attendees were flabbergasted by a huge signboard advertising some sort of futuristic horological trinity, beaming the logos of TAG Heuer, Google and Intel. Those were the pre-Apple Watch days, and after a tentative start by a few Swiss brands trying to make sense of it all by offering ‘smart’ wearable straps, TAG Heuer’s decision to make its own upscale smartwatches, with help from the…

HARRY WINSTON Midnight Skeleton Never mind the ominous sounding name. Harry Winston’s Midnight Skeleton is a classy and elegant number that is formalwear-appropriate, evoking an after-hours, red carpet vibe. The skeletonisation technique is of the modern sort, eschewing overwrought decoration on the openworked components to focus instead on the movement’s architecture. VACHERON CONSTANTIN Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées What better than the world’s oldest running watch manufacture to get a sense of how traditional skeleton watches ought to be done? The Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées features movements hollowed out to their bare essential frames, with remaining spaces decorated with all manner of intricate engraving and finishes. ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton Roger Dubuis has all but mastered the art of the modern skeleton watch, combining state-of-the-art materials, off-kilter aesthetics…

If anyone knows how to tell a story, it’s Jaquet Droz. Famous for enchanting automatons that come to life at the push of a button, the Swiss marque imbues its dials with stunning creations that weave tales of romance and poetry. It’s a tradition that requires an extreme level of precision and artistry from watchmakers and craftsmen, who meticulously work on intricate mechanisms and sculpt art to create timepieces that astound with their beauty and interactivity. The atelier consistently does it so well that founder Pierre Jaquet Droz would no doubt be proud. Renowned in the 18th century for his work in automatons, Jaquet Droz, together with his son Henri-Louis, were masters at their craft. In fact, Henri-Louis’ android creations The Writer, The Musician and The Draughtsman, are still functional…

Partway through our interview with Rexhep Rexhepi (pronounced ‘Ra-jep Ra-jep-pi’), the 30-year-old Kosovo-born, Geneva-based master watchmaker struggles to describe what ultimately completes his timepieces. Passion? Skill? Attention to detail? “It is all that but that’s not the word,” he says, searching for the elusive adjective. Feel? “Yes!” he concurs. “Feel. That is what sets my watches apart.” Since Rexhepi launched his brand AkriviA five years ago, watch collectors and critics have been quick to hail him as the next big thing in haute horlogerie. And for good reason, too. Rexhepi’s backstory shows him up as a watchmaking prodigy. He started his apprenticeship at Patek Philippe at 14 years old, subsequently cutting his teeth at high-end movement manufacturer BNB Concept and with the much-respected Francois-Paul Journe, before starting AkriviA – a…

The tides have turned. While men are seeking out increasingly iced-out timepieces, the ladies, who have traditionally thought of watches more as jewellery than tools, are going after something more discreet. Interestingly, both are switching for similar reasons: showing off not wealth, but taste. It takes a confident man to pull off a wrist full of rocks, and it takes a discerning woman to know that a watch doesn’t have to compete with the brilliance of the sun to be glamourous. Watchmakers are catching on and releasing more understated timepieces that are not only versatile for the woman on the go, but have the added benefit of demonstrating what the brand is all about — beautiful horology. For starters, it helps to work off of a strong, existing design. Bell…

“You write about watches?” That’s the first thing people I haven’t met in a while exclaim, usually with eyes as wide as saucers and jaws halfway to the floor. It’s almost always followed by, “Wow, that’s cool. FOR A GIRL.” Of course I also get that other question every watch writer dreads: “Got discount or not?” But that’s for another story (and no, I can’t get you a good deal on that Rolex Submariner). Whether or not we like to admit it, horology is a big boys’ game. It’s technical, it’s geeky, it’s testosterone-charged—not something girls would be able to understand or appreciate. In fact, as far as machines are concerned, let’s stick to our Kitchenaids and Thermomixes. Right? Wrong. Now I’m not one of those bra-burning, why-must-we-shave feminists enthusiasts.…