Innholdsfortegnelse for August/September 2025 i Cook's Country

IT IS ALMOST dusk on a spring Sunday evening, and a large crowd is standing on the blacktop just outside of the See’s Candies store on La Cienega Boulevard in Los Angeles. We’re in the parking lot of the beloved institution waiting for our numbers to be called. We have placed orders for “the Best Tacos Al Pastor” at the window of a tangerine-colored food truck with a mustachioed hombre painted on its side. A colorful menu describes the tacos, burritos, tortas, sopas, and more available here at Leo’s Taco Truck. Inside the truck, a young woman takes our cash and hands receipts with numbers printed on them to a lineup of customers that is diverse in every way: age, gender, and shade. But we are also alike: We are hungry.…

LITTLE FISH IS a small, seafood-focused takeout window wedged between a gourmet grocery store and a tattoo parlor on West Sunset Boulevard in L.A.’s busy Echo Park neighborhood. The menu is as tidy as the space, and their fried fish sandwich—a delicately crisp, golden-brown fried fillet layered on a toasted potato bun with melted American cheese, vinegary dill pickles, and a generous sloosh of Kewpie mayonnaise—has become the benchmark for the fish sandwich trend on L.A. menus. The concept for Little Fish was born during the COVID-19 pandemic in the home of co-owners and chefs Anna Sonenshein and Niki Vahle. The couple were inspired by Midwestern fish fries and a desire to feed people during the shutdown, when they had both stopped working in restaurants. They decided to turn their…

SKY-HIGH AND OPULENTLY feathered, a slice of coconut cake is glamour on the plate—always in vogue and resplendently flavorful. It shouts, loud and clear: All eyes on me. The allure of coconut cake stems from its origins in the South in the 1880s, where it was a popular and elegant dessert on many tables. In the early 20th century, coconut cake made the transcontinental trip to Los Angeles to become a Hollywood favorite, especially at the celebrated (and celebrity-filled) Cocoanut Grove nightclub, which had its heyday from the 1920s to the 1980s (see sidebar). Like a Tinseltown superstar, the perfect coconut layer cake is awe-inspiring and irresistible. Our version brings together three (three!) plush, tender, richly flavored coconut cake layers, created with a combination of butter and vegetable oil for a…

Grilled Tofu with Vegetable Skewers Be sure to thoroughly oil the grill grate so that the tofu doesn’t stick. Serve with rice or quinoa, if desired. 2 (14-ounce) blocks firm or extra-firm tofu, sliced lengthwise into 1-inch-thick planks2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1½-inch pieces1 red onion, cut into 1½-inch pieces10 ounces cremini mushrooms, stemmed5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided¼ cup soy sauce2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce1 tablespoon Dijon mustard3 garlic cloves, minced2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar½ teaspoon table salt 1. Spread tofu over paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain for 20 minutes. Place bell peppers, onion, and mushrooms in large microwave-safe bowl. Whisk 3 tablespoons oil, soy sauce, Worcestershire, mustard, garlic, and vinegar together in second bowl; transfer ⅓ cup marinade to bowl with vegetables. Cover and microwave…

A HUMBLE BOWL of potato salad is the darling of any cookout spread. It’s not showy like a fruit pie or brawny like a hunk of smoked meat, but a treasured potato salad recipe still elicits the same sense of fierce pride—and maybe even friendly competition—as more conspicuous dishes. Boiled potatoes have a soft texture and relatively neutral flavor, which makes potato salads an ideal canvas for inventive iterations. Here, we present two for your consideration: One is brash and spicy, inspired by coastal seafood boils; the other is elegant and bright, dressed in chimichurri, an herbaceous Argentinian sauce. Either will knock the socks off your fellow picnickers because both are built on a small handful of key principles for exemplary potato salad execution. Bring one (or both!) to your…

WHEN SUMMER ROLLS around, nothing’s more tempting than an ice cream sandwich. But simply smooshing ice cream between two cookies and freezing the stack doesn’t work. More often than not, the cookie gets brittle in the freezer, and biting into the sandwich sends ice cream squishing out the sides and onto your shirt. We wanted to create a recipe for ice cream sandwiches with soft, chewy cookies straight from the freezer and a (relatively) mess-free Cookieseating experience. Here’s the scoop on how to do it. Add corn syrup to the dough: Corn syrup doesn’t crystallize when chilled. Using it helps keep the cookies chewy, not brittle, straight from the freezer. Bake in a hot oven Most cookie recipes call for baking at 350 or 375 degrees, but we bake these…

CARVING BOARDS AREN’T just for slicing Thanksgiving turkeys and holiday roasts, though of course they’re handy then. They’re also essential when slicing up big smoked briskets, grilled steaks, and even watermelon—anything that’s too juicy for a regular cutting board. Most carving boards feature a special juice trench—a groove carved around the perimeter of the board. This trench acts as a reservoir, neatly collecting all the juices from your roast so that they don’t make a mess. That way, you can funnel them back into your pan sauce or gravy. Over the years, we’ve tested dozens of carving boards and have developed some basic preferences. First, we prefer boards with flat surfaces that measure at least 20 by 15 inches, the minimum size that will accommodate a large roast or turkey with…

It’s lunch hour in Los Angeles’s Chinatown, and Annie Son is hard at work in the kitchen at Katsu Sando, a small shop dedicated to the Japanese art of the crispy-fried-cutlet sandwich. The purest form of katsu sandwich is an exercise in the beauty of simplicity: panko-dredged pork or chicken deep-fried until golden brown, dressed with umami-sweet tonkatsu sauce, and nestled with a tousle of green cabbage slaw between two thick slices of milk bread. The menu at Katsu Sando plays those hits, but in this storefront bordered by a kaleidoscope of sidewalk fruit vendors, Son thinks bigger about what can be socked between slabs of shokupan. As the lunch rush picks up, she tops a lacy fried shrimp patty with candied walnuts and a squeeze of honey sauce. I…

The viral online kitchen collaboration of L.A.-based social media star Sarah Ahn (@ahnestkitchen) and her mother, Nam Soon, is now a New York Times best-selling cookbook. Umma blends rare emotional intimacy with practical cooking advice based on Nam Soon’s experience as a skilled home cook and a former restaurant owner. The book includes an ingredient section and produce guide plus step-by-step technique photos, and all recipes are backed by the rigorous recipe-testing power of America’s Test Kitchen. Order now at AmericasTestKitchen.com/umma.…

AT HOLBOX, HIS counterservice marisqueria (Mexican seafood restaurant) in South Los Angeles, chef and owner Gilberto Cetina serves a menu grounded in “coastal Mexican flavors and techniques using the beautiful ingredients of Southern California.” Customers sit at the counter and watch as cooks prepare vibrant plates of scallop ceviche, smoked kanpachi tostadas, and spot prawn aguachile built on impossibly fresh, sweet, delicate prawns. Born in Merida, on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, Cetina moved to Orange County at age 5. Food and cooking saturated his life, but Cetina never aspired to cooking professionally. “As an immigrant family we always used food to make ends meet. We were cooking out of our apartment, our local church, selling after a Sunday service, selling to our neighbors … and we absolutely hated it. We would…

DESPITE RECENT DROUGHT, California’s Central Valley remains America’s breadbasket—much of the produce that feeds our country is grown there. In fact, it’s one of the most prolific growing regions in the world. Fruit, vegetables, nuts, and even grains are big business in the Golden State. Here are a few iconic California-grown foods. AVOCADOS California farms produce about 90 percent of all avocados grown on U.S. soil. We love them in guacamole, grilled, sliced into green salads, or in our Avocado and Cucumber Salad with Sriracha Mayo (page 20). If your avocado is ripe or nearly ripe but you’re not quite ready for it, toss it in the fridge, which slows further ripening. And to keep your cut avocado green and fresh for a day or two, wrap it tightly in…

LYNCHBURG LEMONADE takes its name from the Tennessee town that’s home to the Jack Daniels Distillery. The whiskey-based drink is tangy from sour mix, smoky from whiskey, and effervescent from lemon-lime soda, and it gets a little extra zhuzh from orange liqueur. But who was the first to mix one up? A man named Tony Mason claimed he created the drink at his Alabama restaurant and lounge in 1980. Mason sued Jack Daniels after they popularized the drink in a marketing campaign, but courts ultimately sided with Jack Daniels’ parent company. We’ll leave analysis of the case to others and instead raise a glass to both Tony Mason and Jack Daniels, as both deserve credit for the cocktail. And, to avoid stepping into the fray, we’re making our own unique version…

MAKING YOUR OWN ice cream can be a joyful experience. The most common process is to gently cook a custard base, transfer it to an ice cream machine, and relax as it churns. Yes, it takes more effort than grabbing a pint out of the freezer aisle, but the end product is unbelievably rich and creamy; picture the ice cream from your favorite scoop shop, customized exactly how you choose. Fun and Flavorful Mix-Ins Two things to keep in mind when choosing mix-ins for your homemade ice cream: flavor and look. Generally speaking, you want ingredients with a lot of flavor that will look appealing (and fun!) in the finished ice cream. Here are some of our favorites. VANILLA ICE CREAM Serves 8 to 10 (Makes about 1 quart) Total Time:…

CHOWDER (“CHOWDAH” in our home base of Boston) takes many forms: clam, fish, and corn chowder, to name a few. Whatever the main ingredient, most traditional versions also contain potatoes, cream, and bacon. In New England, corn chowder is a summertime staple with a devoted following; a great one is, as old-timers say, “worth the drive.” For this version of corn chowder, we had two goals: deep, “worth the drive” corn flavor, and simplicity. There is nothing quite like the sweet, buttery flavor of fresh peak-season corn—use the best and freshest you can find. Sufficient corniness comes from just two ears of corn. First, we cut kernels from the cobs; then, we scrape the stripped cobs with the back of a knife to extract the sweet, starchy pulp (or corn…

GRILLED STONE FRUIT Serves 4 to 6 Total Time: 20 minutes Here we call for a two-level fire, meaning the grill (whether gas or charcoal) is set up to have a side with high heat and a side with medium heat. For best results, use high-quality, ripe, in-season fruit. You can use a traditional or disposable baking pan here; don’t use a glass or ceramic baking dish. Serve grilled stone fruit as a side for grilled meats, as a breakfast bowl topping, or as a simple dessert with ice cream or whipped cream. 1½ pounds ripe but slightly firm peaches, plums, or nectarines, halved and pitted2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1. Brush cut sides of fruit with melted butter. 2. Arrange fruit cut side down over hotter side of preheated…

GOLDEN ELIXIR Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce, which we call for in our recipe for Ayara Thai–Inspired Grilled Flank Steak with Jaew Sauce on page 9, has a lot in common with soy sauce, as it is primarily made from fermented soybeans. But with sugar and other seasonings added, this Thai ingredient provides a surprisingly complex savory-sweet flavor. We love it as an addition to dipping sauces and marinades; some folks even use it as a substitute for fish sauce. You can find Golden Mountain Seasoning Sauce in many Asian groceries or online. CLEARING THE AIR ON A CLOUDY NAME Confectioners’ sugar is standard white sugar that’s been pulverized into a powder, with a small amount of added cornstarch to help prevent it from clumping. It has many aliases, including powdered sugar,…

AYARA THAI’S LOCATION near Los Angeles International Airport is no accident—the restaurant, which opened in 2004, sprung from owners Andy and Anna Asapahu’s days serving Thai Airways flight crews. They’d cook dishes at home; their children, Cathy and Vanda, would deliver the meals to airport hotels. “The shrimp paste fried rice and the kra tiem are dishes that Thai people commonly have for lunch, but at the time, weren’t common on Thai menus in the U.S., especially the way that our parents made them,” Cathy says. Today, Ayara Thai has many of these same dishes on the menu. I recently joined the Asapahus (at left) for a family meal of mu kratha, a style of eating that calls to mind Korean barbecue or Japanese shabu shabu. A vessel with a charcoal…

ACCORDING TO RENOWNED burger scholar George Motz, chili cheeseburgers are a Los Angeles original, dating back to the 1920s. You might think they started as cheeseburgers, with the chili coming later, but in fact, he explains, the chili “predates everything on a burger except mustard and onion” and maybe pickles. “Chili probably existed everywhere in L.A. from the turn of the 20th century onward,” he says, and “burger culture was exploding following the rise of White Castle.” It was only a matter of time before the two met on a bun. But where? “We believe it was at Ptomaine Tommy’s,” Motz says, where entrepreneur Tommy DeForest—in an early act of burger destiny from a region that would give us McDonald’s, In-N-Out, Carl’s Jr., and Bob’s Big Boy—began serving chili atop…

MAKI ARE A staple of Japanese cuisine and sushi restaurants around the world. One of the most popular rolls on American shores is surely cucumber and avocado maki, a satisfying fishless combination of seasoned sushi rice, crisp cucumber, and creamy avocado all wrapped up in briny nori (dried seaweed). But what happens when we remove the rice from the equation and reimagine the ingredients as a refreshing salad? Here, silky avocado is the unquestioned star. Its richness offers a creamy, buttery smoothness that anchors the dish, a soft backdrop for crisp cucumber. To ensure maximum crunch, we salt the cucumber in advance and drain off the excess liquid before assembling the salad. Pickled ginger is used as a palate cleanser with sushi; here it does similarly refreshing work in a…

NOTHING BEATS a fresh tomato; however, when faced with the inevitable glut at the peak of growing season, you start looking for new ways to use them. We suggest baking them into savory bread pudding, a soft, silky, comforting dish studded with jammy morsels of concentrated tomato. Making this bread pudding takes a bit of choreography: First, toss chunks of tomato with oil, garlic, a bit of sugar, and some red pepper flakes, and then slide them into the oven to drive off their excess moisture and concentrate their flavor. While they roast, slip a baking sheet of torn bread (we love sturdy French baguette here, torn rather than cubed for a rustic look) into the oven to dry it out. Once toasted to a faint golden color, it will more…

GRILLED ZUCCHINI WITH HERB-CAPER VINAIGRETTE Serves 4 Total Time: 55 minutes We prefer small zucchini here—they have smaller seeds than more mature zucchini, they are sweeter, and they have a more delicate texture. 1½ pounds small (4-to 6-ounce) zucchini, halved lengthwise4 scallions, white and green parts separated, green parts sliced thin6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided¾ teaspoon table salt3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley1½ tablespoons lemon juice1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill1 tablespoon capers1 garlic clove, minced¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes½ teaspoon flake sea salt 1. Toss zucchini and scallion whites with 2 tablespoons oil on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle vegetables all over with table salt. 2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter full of charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash,…

EDIBLE COOKIE DOUGH Serves 10 to 12 (Makes 2 cups) Total Time: 15 minutes, plus 45 minutes chilling Do not substitute rolled oats for the quick oats. We do not recommend baking this dough to make cookies. To use as an ice cream stir-in, roll about 1 cup cookie dough into heaping ¼-teaspoon pieces (about ½ inch each) and freeze until solid, at least 15 minutes; fold frozen pieces into churned ice cream base before freezing ice cream. 2 cups (6 ounces/170 grams) quick oats1 cup packed (7 ounces/198 grams) dark brown sugar8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces and softened2 tablespoons whole milk1 tablespoon light corn syrup1 teaspoon vanilla extract½ teaspoon table salt¾ cup (4½ ounces/128 grams) mini semisweet chocolate chips 1. Process oats in food processor until…

CARNE GUISADA, which translates to “meat stew,” is a broad term for a dish that varies greatly—you’ll find iterations in many parts of North, Central, and South America—but is universally enjoyed. Here, we focus on a Tex-Mex expression, featuring tender cubes of beef cooked in a flour-thickened broth. The guisada is bolstered with aromatic onions and garlic, bulked up with potatoes, and brightened with lively chiles and spices. It is a perfect candidate for the Instant Pot, which allows you to sear, sauté, pressure-cook, and simmer in the same pot—faster. INSTANT POT CARNE GUISADA Serves 8 to 10 Total Time: 1¼ hours This recipe was developed using Instant Pot brand multicookers (both 6-and 8-quart models); you can use other multicookers, but cooking times and results may vary. 3 pounds boneless…

The October/November 2025 issue of Cook’s Country will have a package dedicated to “Friendsgiving,” a holiday gathering where there are no rules for the menu. You’ll find recipes for Slow-Roasted Ducks, Bagel Stuffing, Jalapeño Popper Mac and Cheese, Stuffed Pumpkin, Radicchio Salad with Blue Cheese, and Pumpkin Spice Ice Cream Cake. Still hungry? Try Salted Caramel Apple Pie Bars, Air-Fryer Coconut Shrimp, Creamy Mashed Potatoes, Bean Bourguignon, and more. Coming soon!…