Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2024 i Bon Appetit

It’s fair to call my day-to-day eating habits “plant forward.” That’s a decidedly more accurate description than vegetarian or pescatarian. I feel completely satisfied eating a bowl of puréed honeynut squash soup with a salad for dinner or making a main course out of charred carrots and green beans. At restaurants I’m just as likely to order the beet risotto as the braised lamb shank. Don’t get me wrong: I love a good chicken roasted in a cast-iron skillet (page 71) as much as anybody. But unless I’m having company, I rarely cook meat at home. Even then, many of my friends have dietary restrictions. Although my lifestyle is hardly free of animal products—I love butter, the stinkiest cheeses, and ice cream that I make from scratch—I’m happy to accommodate…

4 SERVINGS 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 large shallots, coarsely chopped3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more1 14-oz. can artichoke hearts, drained, coarsely chopped1 10-oz. package frozen spinach, thawed, drained8 oz. penne or other short tube pasta2 cups whole milk4 oz. cream cheese, room temperature, cut into pieces2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about 1 cup)¼ tsp. freshly ground pepper4 oz. part-skim mozzarella, coarsely grated (about 1¼ cups)Hot sauce (such as Cholula; for serving) 1. Heat broiler. Heat oil in a large high-sided ovenproof skillet over medium. Add shallots, garlic, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are translucent, about 4 minutes. Stir in artichoke hearts and spinach. 2. Add pasta, milk,…

When my dad got a terminal cancer diagnosis at age 41, he decided to teach me to fish. I was three years old, but he was determined to spend the rest of our time together making sure I knew what I was doing. He wanted me to be okay without him and believed if I knew how to catch my own food (and outfish any man who dared underestimate me), I’d be okay enough. Thirty years later I love it as much as he once did: fly-fishing for trout, bait fishing for bass, spin fishing for salmon with lures as bright and feathered as Vegas showgirls, even commercial fishing (which I don’t do myself but love being around). This is how I wound up, one dark February morning in 2017,…

Where to Eat At Lasai, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Rio de Janeiro, pickled chayote and shaved hearts of palm replace truffles and caviar on the veg-forward tasting menu. Nothing against those ingredients, says chef Rafa Costa e Silva, “but they aren’t Brazilian.” What to Watch The Taste of Things is a culinary love story set in 1885 France, starring Juliette Binoche and directed by Trần Anh Hùng. Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s gorgeous food is as sultry as the slow burn between Benoît Magimel’s character and his live-in cook. What to Read In Eat More Plants, chef Daniel Humm chronicles Eleven Madison Park’s transition to a fully plant-based menu. It’s an inside look at his creative process full of sketches of dishes, paintings of fruits and vegetables, and handwritten notes.…

4 SERVINGS 12 oz. cavatappi or other small tube pastaKosher salt1½ lb. broccolini (about 2 large bunches), woody ends trimmed, cut into 2" pieces3 oz. Parmesan, cut into 1" cubes; plus more finely grated for serving (optional)2 garlic cloves8 oil-packed anchovies6 cups basil leaves (from about 3 bunches)½ cup raw walnuts¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pasta to a colander. 2. Cook broccolini in same pot of boiling water until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes; drain in colander with pasta. 3. Meanwhile, pulse cubed Parmesan and garlic in a food processor or blender until finely ground, about 1 minute. Add anchovies, basil, and walnuts and, with the motor running, pour in…

1. PROCESSED CHEESE SLICES Kraft isn’t available here, so I have some generic Danish version of American cheese. I only ever buy it for burgers. I’m not even going to apologize—I made smash burgers the other night, and they don’t taste right if you use fancy cheese; it needs to melt instantly. 2. POLAROID FILM I started dabbling in photography back in 2008 with a crappy point-and-shoot digital camera (which I broke one night in a mosh pit). Nowadays I moonlight as a professional photographer, but I still take Polaroids, and storing film in the fridge keeps it fresh. I love film because you really have to think in order to create the ideal image. 3. VINTAGE FERMENTS I still have some early samples of things I made while running…

BRIGHT AND SPICY SMOKED SALMON DIP 4 SERVINGS Oil-packed smoked salmon combines the flaky texture of cooked fresh fish with the subtle intensity of cold-smoked salmon. Mashed with punchy mix-ins like cornichons, lemon zest and juice, and sambal oelek, it becomes a superb party-ready dip or an excellent schmear for bagels or crackers. 2 3.5–4-oz. cans oil-packed smoked salmon¼ cup (or more) mayonnaise2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cornichons, plus more thinly sliced for serving½ tsp. (or more) finely grated lemon zest2 tsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice1 tsp. (or more) sambal oelek2 dashes (or more) vinegar-based hot sauce (such as Tabasco)Freshly ground pepperKosher saltToasted bread or crackers and crudités (for serving) Strain salmon through a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl; set oil aside. Remove any skin and discard (or…

If you ask me, every season is whiskey sour season, but my absolute favorite time to drink one is in the depths of winter. When the sun goes down well before cocktail o’clock, the merry chatter of ice in a shaker is an especially welcome punctuation to a long day of work. And even though people tend to associate tart, frothy drinks in the sour family with warm weather (think poolside daiquiris), they’re even more delicious when made with peak season California and Florida citrus. (And a good source of vitamin C to boot.) The Whiskey Daisy is a lovely variation on the form, one that swaps in a sweet liqueur, in this case Cointreau, for some of the simple syrup used in a traditional whiskey sour. I love the…

4 SERVINGS 12 oz. medium tube pasta (such as mezzi rigatoni or pipe rigate)1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided1 lb. crimini or button mushrooms, cut into ¼" pieces8 oz. hot Italian sausage1 large red onion, finely chopped4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped2 Tbsp. tomato paste¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakesFreshly ground pepper⅓ cup balsamic vinegarFinely grated Parmesan (for serving) 1. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid. 2. Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp. oil and 2 Tbsp. butter in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot or skillet over medium-high until butter is melted. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally,…

PORK ADOBO PULL-APART SLIDERS MAKES 12 These shareable sliders deliver all the oversized fun of a 6-foot deli sub, but with DIY bragging rights. A full slab of Hawaiian rolls is cut in half through the equator to form the base of a super-sandwich piled high with pork adobo and a pickle-y mixture of daikon and cucumbers inspired by Filipino achara. Toasting the rolls is key, as it ensures they can sop up plenty of vinegary juices without falling apart. PORK 3 lb. boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), cut into 4 equal pieces1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt1 tsp. freshly ground pepper2 Tbsp. vegetable oil1 medium onion, quartered1 head of garlic, cloves finely chopped4 dried bay leaves1¼ cups unseasoned rice vinegar1 cup soy sauce PICKLES AND…

Rice flour, sweet beans, sugar, and water. These are the humble materials used to make wagashi—painstakingly crafted, bite-size tea snacks once prized by the Japanese imperial court. Practitioners who have trained in the tradition, which dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868), dedicate hours to grinding, kneading, and molding each component. When I first encountered pastry chef Phoebe Ogawa’s wagashi, I was blown away by the intricacy of each tender, miniature creation. The art of wagashi is inspired by the five senses and the poetics of nature. For Ogawa this could mean an ombré sunset adorned with mini dragonflies representing the autumnal equinox, or wisps of pampas grass swaying beneath a harvest moon, or a tiny dew-dappled hydrangea stilled after a long summer rain. Seasonal ingredients are frequently added too,…

When I arrived to photograph Kaat Kaye at Falconwood Farms apiary, she was already deep into checking hive boxes, unaware of my presence. I overheard her nattering at the bees, their soft hum filling the air between words of encouragement and negotiation. Her role is part-caretaker, part-coworker, monitoring the colony’s health, harvesting surplus honey, and ensuring the hive’s survival. This was the first of six visits I’d make following the 29-year-old beekeeper behind Rootflux Bee Co. Kaye was born with profound deafness, so she doesn’t rely on the aural cues people in the hearing community often take for granted. While Kaye is able to hear with the assistance of hearing aids, she usually removes them when she’s working. “Sounds aren’t natural to me,” she explained. “I just love the peace…