Innholdsfortegnelse for Jun-14 i Bon Appetit

INSTAGRAM TAKEOVER Adam Goldberg, the globe-hopping gourmand behind @alifewortheating, takes over the BA Instagram feed this month with photos from his most recent travels. His insatiable appetite might lead him to Tokyo, Stockholm, or deepest Brooklyn. Follow along with envy at @bonappetitmag. LINK BAIT The FIFA World cup begins June 12 in Brazil. We’re celebrating with a World Cup of Sausage on bonappetit.com. Our experts break down each country’s finest encased meat: chorizo, landjäger, finocchiona—whatever they call it. At right, a little pregame action. HOT DOGS Nothing screams “U.S.A.! U.S.A.!” like this classic. MORCILLA This bold blood sausage is a staple of Spain. CHORIZO Mexico’s zesty link of choice. Pair with beans! KOLBASA Mother Russia likes this one with braised cabbage. BRATWURST A grilled brat and a beer? Gotta be…

CREAM OF THE CROP When berries are peaking, they rarely see the inside of my fridge. at the farmers’ market, I handle comparison shopping by buying twice what I can carry. Some are devoured on site: “mom, no one will know these even existed,” my younger son says as we shove blueberries into our mouths. The walk home is all shortcake fantasies and cobbler dreams, but as I unpack the containers, reality sets in. No baking today. Instead, I tumble raspberries and blackberries onto dishes, splash them with thick, cold heavy cream, and add a drizzle of maple syrup. We sit on the stoop and eat them just like this, a sweet and fleeting feast.—CARLA LALLI MUSIC Eat Your Spinach Run through a juicer, folded into party dip, or served…

The theater legend and X-Men: Days of Future Past star is all about Marmite, Keurig machines, and his wife’s sea-salt brownies So what’s the last thing you ate? “An unconventional Cobb salad at Stone Park Cafe in Brooklyn. It had a poached egg surrounded by a crisp, deep-fried breadcrumb shell. When I cut into it, the yolk ran into the lettuce.” What flavors do you love? “Savory and intense. I’m English, and all Englishmen are addicted to Marmite. My wife [American singer Sunny Ozell] would rather think it’s not in her kitchen.” What repulses you? “Cooked mushrooms. They’re slimy and old-tasting.” Booze of choice. “Chivas and soda on the rocks. Plain and simple.” How do you take your coffee? “I used to be a traditionalist—Kona Gold in a drip maker—but…

Caffè Shakerato BA TEST KITCHEN To take this Italian classic in a mocha direction, add 1 oz. chocolate syrup (we like Monin brand best) and cut down the simple syrup to ½ oz. Combine 2 oz. strong cold-brew coffee and 1 oz. simple syrup in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice and shake vigorously (this is important; you really want to agitate the coffee) until outside is frosty and drink is light and frothy, about 1 minute. Strain into a small tumbler. Makes 1 Dublin Iced Coffee SODA & SWINE, SAN DIEGO A delicious mix of caffeine, dessert, and danger. Mix 2 oz. strong cold-brew coffee" 2 oz. stout (such as AleSmith Speedway or Guinness), 1 ½ oz. Irish whiskey" and ¾ oz. simple syrup in a highball glass.…

Restaurants around the country are featuring the Nashville specialty hot chicken—and with good reason: It’s as delicious as it is spicy (and it’s very spicy). Local spot Hattie B’s shows us how it’s done THE MENU Nashville-Style Hot Chicken Classic Coleslaw Banana Meringue Pudding WHEN FOLKS IN NASHVILLE SAY hot, they mean it. Take the local dish, hot chicken: The meat is dunked in hot sauce–laced buttermilk, then fried, its crisp skin lacquered with cayenne oil. Heat seekers devour white bread to quell the flames. And then they reach for another piece. Restaurants like Hattie B’s and Prince’s, the dish’s originator, know the routine: The first bite is a challenge, but then the sweetsalty-spicy alchemy pulls ’em in. Don’t just stand the heat—revel in it. Nashville-Style Hot Chicken ACTIVE 1½…

Go wild! Wild salmon isn’t cheap, but it’s worth it. It’s a fish you can feel good about eating, and not just because it’s delicious. Here are a few points to consider next time you’re making choices at the fish counter: In terms of taste, wild salmon is richer, with a deeper flavor than farmed. The absence of color-boosting dyes means the vivid orange flesh you’re looking at is the real thing. And that fresh, salty flavor? It comes from the ocean, not an added saline solution. Like baseball and tomatoes, salmon has a season. Most wild salmon spawn in summer and are at their fit, fat, flavorful best before swimming upstream to reproduce. Look for fresh wild salmon from May through September. Out of season, frozen wild salmon (often…

Atwisting half-hour drive through hobby vineyards and vertiginous sheep pastures did nothing positive for my hangover. The 20 or so courses—plus beverage pairings—from dinner the previous night were soon threatening to make a reappearance in the front seat of chef Christopher Kostow’s car. But early this morning was the only chance we were going to have to see a nearly forgotten wonder of California up close. So I held it together, barely. During the last few decades of the 19th century, Napa Soda Springs was a lavish compound for wealthy socialites, who would travel by ferry and train, then carriage, to the resort, arriving at the entrance of the towering Rotunda Hotel, which could be seen from all over the Valley. Visitors to the Springs would work up a sweat…

THIS IS SUMMER IF YOU WERE TO DROP BY the Bon Appétit offices at, say, 5 p.m. on a Thursday, it might feel more like a backyard barbecue than a workplace. You’d catch creative director Alex Grossman dipping into my fridge for a well-chilled American beer (I like to keep it classic, and real cold), while restaurant and drinks editor Andrew Knowlton mixes a highball and lectures me on the need for artisanal bitters. At some point, Alison Roman or Dawn Perry might come up from the test kitchen with a tray of hot-andcrispy this or creamy-and-tangy that, and take up Knowlton on his standing drink offer. Now, I’m not saying every office can or should operate like a T.G.I. Fridays. But I do know that when you work behind…

SPINACH SALAD WITH DATES “It’s everything I want in a salad: sweet, crunchy, and bright.”—Claire Saffitz, assistant food editor Blend 2 pitted dates, 1/3 cup vegetable oil, 1 tsp. finely grated lime zest, and 1/2 cup lime juice in a blender until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and cook 4 thinly sliced large shallots, stirring often, until golden brown and crisp, 5-7 minutes; drain on paper towels and season with salt. Toss 1 trimmed bunch flat-leaf spinach and 1/3 cup chopped dates with dressing. Top with shallots. 4 servings SPINACH-HONEYDEW COOLER “I’ll juice just about any green, but spinach is my go-to. melon just sweetens the deal.” —Alison Roman, senior associate food editor Pass 1 bunch flat-leaf…

Everything you need to eat, read, buy, and lick this month ORDER Seriously Elevated Plane Food Finally, an airline doing mealtime right. JetBlue’s Mint class, which begins this month on the jFK–LaX route, has a menu adapted from nYc’s Saxon + parole. Dishes include corn soup with huitlacoche or beets three ways (roasted, shaved, pickled). From $599 one-way (including a lie-flat seat!), it’s a worthy indulgence.jetblue.com SCOOP Cocktails by the Pint The june Summer Cocktail Series from ice cream gods Salt & Straw combines two things we love about portland, or: craft cocktails and a chill, collaborative vibe. For each of its five boozy-delicious flavors, the dairy whizzes teamed with a different pDX bartender—like imperial’s brandon Wise on chocolate chip mint julep. $65 for five pints; saltandstraw.com SCORE Cult Vegetables…

WE’VE GOT A CRUSH For a totally new take on beets, just smash ’em. The flat surface gets nice and crispy in a hot skillet Crushed Beets with Lemon Vinaigrette ACTIVE 30 MINUTES TOTAL 1 HOUR 20 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS This two-part cooking technique adds layers of texture—a creamy inside and a crisp outside. 2 lb. mixed small or medium beets (such as Chioggia, red, and/or golden), scrubbed 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ cup (lightly packed) fresh mint leaves, plus more 2 Tbsp. torn fresh dill, plus more ½ cup labneh (Lebanese strained yogurt) or plain Greek yogurt Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) Preheat oven to 400°. Divide beets between…

BARCELONA HAS EARNED international bragging rights for its far-out gastronomy (foams! spheres! airs!), but now down-to-earth and, frankly, more soulsatisfying foods are hitting the tables of the moment. Low-key cafés, ingredientdriven fare, and straightforward presentations are the new norm. The return to simpler food may be the one good thing to come of la crisis. Spain’s economic downturn has Michelin-starred chefs trading tasting menus for tapas bars, beachside shacks, and ice cream shops. And those unfussy cocktails—like G&Ts and vermouth and soda—are back in vogue, too. Here, ten ways to enjoy Barcelona’s modern modest side. 1 Shop Like a Chef La Boqueria is still Barcelona’s best market—and also its most touristy. The earlier in the morning you get there, the fewer elbows you’ll have to throw at ruthless grandmothers. How…

IN THE BEGINNING, there was toast. Specifically, slices of burnt brioche, topped with homemade ricotta and spread to the very edges with smallbatch jam in flavors like strawberry–rose geranium. And with that, Jessica Koslow turned a year’s kitchen experience (followed by a three-year stint as a producer for American Idol) into Sqirl. What began in 2011 as an upstart preserves operation quickly spawned a sliver of a café serving breakfast and lunch in Silver Lake, Los Angeles’s neighborhood du jour. Suddenly, people were waiting 20 minutes for that toast—in carbophobic L.A.!—forming a literal breadline to the tiny storefront. And they kept coming back for dishes that, at the time, didn’t exactly come off as crowd-pleasers on paper: a brown-rice bowl with sorrel pesto and preserved Meyer lemon; Danish rye topped…

As fruit pies bake, they release steam, which is why the top crust needs to be vented (trapped moisture equals soggy pastry). Cutting simple slits is fine, but we love the way these circular cutouts look. It’s easy: Use the point of a large pastry tip (about ¾" diameter) to punch out circles in the dough, leaving a 3" border. Be sure to allow a little space between them to avoid tears.—ALISON ROMAN THE CRUNCH BUNCH Anything I can dip in butter and salt is my idea of a perfect food. That’s why I love radishes—from French Breakfasts, with their diminutive size and oblong shape (fine, they’re my favorite), to spicy Easter Eggs and the mild tasting but visually vibrant watermelon radish.—A.R. 1 WATERMELON Prized for its stunning inner beauty…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, MY GIRLFRIEND AND I ARE OBSESSED WITH THE PEEL ’N’ EAT SHRIMP AT SON OF A GUN IN LOS ANGELES, BUT WE HAVE NO IDEA HOW THEY MAKE THEM. PLEASE HELP! —LANDON LEWIS, Los Angeles SHRIMP WITH MUSTARDLIME DIPPING SAUCE 4 SERVINGS Cooking the shrimp with their shells on helps them retain flavor; scoring them along the back lets you remove the vein and makes peeling easier. Win-win. SHRIMP 1½ lb. shell-on large shrimp Kosher salt ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. Old Bay seasoning 3 lemons, halved 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley MUSTARD-LIME DIPPING SAUCE ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tbsp. spicy brown mustard 1 tsp. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. honey 1 tsp. light brown sugar ½ tsp. English mustard powder ½…

1 ANDREW KNOWLTON RESTAURANT ED. “I’m loving the slightly effervescent Ameztoi Txakolina Rosato Rubentis 2012 rosé: It goes with everything from potato salad to cold fried chicken. Best of all, it’s got a screwcap.” $24; bottlerocket.com 2 CARLA LALLI MUSIC FOOD & FEATURES ED. “My dream beach outing involves blue skies, gentle waves, and me crushing the competition with my ultrachic beach tennis set.” $140; fredericksandmae.com 3 CHRISTINE MUHLKE EXECUTIVE ED. “You can take a blanket to the beach, so why not a duvet? Steven Alan does such good stripes; this deserves to make it out of the house.” $149/queen size; westelm.com 4 ALEX GROSSMAN CREATIVE DIR. “Most umbrellas stink. This titanium one is light and indestructible, and the built-in vents keep it from blowing away.” $90; coolibar.com 5 DANIELLE…

My Perfect Father’s Day For 364 days of the year, I’m at the mercy of my family and career. But there’s one day I get to do exactly what I want. Here’s how it should go down 6 A.M. Wake up early and spend the morning reading The New Yorker in my seersucker Sleepy Jones pajamas ($293; sleepyjones.com). 7:30 A.M. Watch ESPN SportsCenter while my daughters make me biscuits stuffed with Jimmy Dean sausage (judge away!) and slathered with honey butter. 10 A.M. You shouldn’t have! My family gives me a Garmin Forerunner 620 watch ($450; garmin.com), and it’s off for a run over the Brooklyn Bridge. NOON A picnic in the park with my ladies. It includes pimiento cheese sandwiches, Grandma Utz’s potato chips, Ibérico de bellota ham, and…

EARLY LAST MONTH, when the earth had warmed up but the air was still cool, we scattered tiny lettuce seeds in our gardens. Now we’re harvesting the tender leaves, along with the sorrel and wild arugula that come back every year. Add to that the lettuces of every variety that we gather from our local farmstands and markets (not to mention the bunches brought by friends), and we begin to satisfy our annual jones for a good salad. The leaves we love offer the trinity of vitality, texture, and flavor. We take care to choose a dressing that complements them, rather than overwhelms. For example, we serve thick, creamy dressings like Green Goddess on hardy, tightheaded lettuces that can hold the weight, and thinner dressings and vinaigrettes on sturdy and…

In summertime, the living is easy—and the cooking should be, too. With market-fresh ingredients peaking left and right, there’s no better time than now (and next month, and the month after that) to blow minds with dishes so simple, you barely even need a recipe THE CAPRESE Done right, the caprese’s timeless combination of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil is more than the sum of its parts. That’s why every component counts: You must seek out the best ingredients, use your fanciest olive oil, and sprinkle on the Maldon and coarsely ground pepper. Master these essentials and the caprese formula can be endlessly (and brilliantly) adapted, as seen here. 1 BARLEY, FENNEL, AND BEET SALAD Toss 2 cups cooked barley (from about 1/3 cup dried), 1 thinly sliced fennel bulb,…

Sour Cherry Pie 8 SERVINGS Adding almond flour to the pastry dough makes for a super-tender, toasty-looking crust. CRUST 1/3 cup almond flour 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt 21/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 large egg yolks FILLING AND ASSEMBLY All-purpose flour for surface 1 cup granulated sugar 1 Tbsp. finely grated lime zest 3 Tbsp. cornstarch Pinch of kosher salt 3 lb. fresh sour cherries, pitted, or 6 cups frozen sour cherries 1 large egg, beaten to blend Demerara sugar or granulated sugar (for sprinkling) CRUST Pulse almond flour, granulated sugar, salt, and 2%½ cups all-purpose flour in a food processor. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Whisk egg yolks…

“I don’t eat a lot of junk food anymore, but I sure remember it,” sighs CeeLo Green, recording artist and former coach on The Voice. “I used to go through boxes of Little Debbies. I liked Star Crunch, and of course those oatmeal pies.” These days, the “Forget You” singer, who is starring in a new reality show on TBS (CeeLo Green’s The Good Life), keeps things more moderate on the food front. Sure, he still puts potato chips on hot dogs, but instead of snack cakes, he goes for Pinkberry. About that frozen yogurt: Green is devoted and evangelical, rattling off favorite flavors and admitting that he usually knows what he wants to order before he even arrives. “I’m a regular—I’m like Norm from Cheers,” he laughs. Just don’t…