All my childhood friends spent their summers in East Hampton or on Martha’s Vineyard, but my mother took my brother, Geoff, and me much farther afield. Lower Austria’s Styrian Alps took some getting used to, given that we lived in Princeton, New Jersey. Instead of swimming or sailing, we spent the holiday with our cousins amid tens of thousands of acres of dense, dark-green private forest, a Grimms’ fairy-tale landscape teeming with bears, red deer, foxes, chamois, and wild boars. And I had to wear dirndls; yes, dirndls.
Hunting is what attracted my solemn great-grandfather Baron Albert von Rothschild to Lower Austria in the 1870s, shortly before he married his teenage French cousin Bettina. Though their Vienna home was a grandiose neo-Renaissancestyle palace by a Paris architect, Albert commissioned Fellner…